Quote:
Originally Posted by DeliciousTuning
OK, we are going to take a step back and rehash what we are seeing form a tuning perspective and the conditions he ran the dyno in and the correction factors used because people are over looking a some aspects of the dyno plot.
Important Points on the Dyno Plot:
1. We are pretty positive this is one of the tunes in or vehicle. This is not a stock tune from what we can tell. Though like we stated there is no baseline.
1. 200whp is on E85, we have confirmed this on our stock test vehicle. On 91-93 octane we are still dialing in the package with specific headers, and parts package but we are close but this is also done on in optimal conditions.
2. There is NO baseline on this car or any stock car on this dyno in the same conditions, weather related, correction factor related or what gear the pull was done in and therefore hard to say what the true gains are.
3. Intake temps we have noted a variance of about 3-4 horsepower per 10 degree change based off 60 degrees Fahrenheit when testing for a professional race teams. I am sure this would have a decent affect on the power of nearly a 40 degree difference.
4. What gear was the dyno pull performed in? As 5th gear is the optimal gear for dyno'ing on this vehicle. And you could see a few horsepower difference between the 4th and 5th gear.
5. There was no correction factor (STD) used and this would equate to about 8 horsepower to the final number in these conditions. This is the correction factor just about everyone on this forum uses for DynoJets as it reads the highest.
6. Unknown fuel being used, but I would assume it is some sort of 91-93 octane fuel and not E85. Which this of course will have a large impact on overall power.
All in all the heat is a big killer, and I would expect this car to make about 190+ on a 60 degree day with a STD correction factor on 91-93 octane. Yes that is a difference of about 30 horsepower, but heat kills especially on these cars that rev high where velocity and density of air are extremely important to making power.
But when it comes down to it to the owner of the vehicle. Install the stock tune back in your vehicle and drive it and then install our tune back in and I am sure you will notice the difference. A dyno does not tell the whole story without back to back runs of a stock vehicle with stock tune in the same conditions versus a vehicle with all the parts on the vehicle and our tune.
As for the P2096 code.
The customer has a bung extender for the rear O2 and this is causing the P2096 code. With this placed back to a more stock location setup this should remove this check engine light.
Hope that explains everything, and if you have any more questions or concerns you may email or call.
Cheers,
William Knose
Delicious Tuning
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Thank you for a nice reply that has good information. I hope you received my PM with the run files and tune in a dropbox location, if anything, to see how the car was running in this heat. Plus, the car was definitely very hot from a long drive over. With SAE correction, power was 173-174, with STD correction, a couple HP higher. I agree that heat has a huge effect. This was on 93 octane fuel from a Chevron station. I am totally agreeing for re-dynoing on a colder temp day, as I had said. In fact, 190hp on SAE (i prefer SAE to STD and am aware STD is always about 3-4% higher) correction was my goal.
Sorry if I took offense on the way Zach replied, I do apologize if I seemed hostile. Just seemed silly to me to say I tuned the stock file over the stock file and somehow got the other features installed in the process. Just seemed like blame-shifting, and I'm sorry if I read it the wrong way.
edit: And yes, the car feels much smoother on your tune than it felt stock. I like your tune. I hope you don't think that I was attacking your claims when I posted the dyno. I was just trying to provide more info, especially for people around my area or that have similar set-ups.