Quote:
Originally Posted by DeliciousTuning
Interesting code, P2096 as this is referring to a catalyst's in-efficiency which is very similar to P0420, but they are still different. Now we only shut off the codes we actually need to shut off and the P2096 we have not seen a need to shut off for any reason prior to what you have posted. So this makes me think there maybe something different in your setup causing the trouble code.
Can you answer a couple questions for me.
1. Do you have a rear O2 sensor bung extender?
2. Where is the rear O2 sensor located in the exhaust?
3. Which intake do you have on the vehicle?
4. Which headers are on the vehicle?
Sorry to ask all these questions but I am bad at remembering and it is good for those that may have the same problem down the road for their information.
As for the dyno run those are some hot temperatures and high humidity. I bet your intake temps were well into the 100+ mark also, definitely not ideal for making power on a normally aspirated vehicle. But a good test to show how consistent the tune is in high heat and humidity.
Cheers,
William Knose
Delicious Tuning
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1. Good for you to remind me, I do have an o2 extension on my rear o2 sensor. It kept the P0420 off while driving around town before I got tuned. I still haven't gotten my car back into the air to take it off.
2. Running Borla UEL (later batch, I examined everything in person before buying and looked fine; that's the good thing about having shops to buy new things in store instead of shipping), so the o2 sensors are in the stock locations, but obviously there is no cat there now.
3. Stock intake, Perrin Drop-In Filter
4. See number 2.
I know it's very hot and humid, but that's the average Houston summer so it's a good base mark for what I should expect in the summer heat. I definitely want to get back on a dyno once late fall/early winter is here and highs are in the 60s-70s, and humidity falls off.