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Originally Posted by King Tut
I look forward to seeing how your AP rotors and pads hold up in the long run. The one thing I don't understand is how the OEM brakes on my 1987 BMW 325is running cheap $15 rotors and anything from Hawk DTC60 to PFC01 pads with no modifications other than removing the OEM heat shields hold up just fine to racing conditions and the BRZ is unable to do the same. The difference in weight is only on the order of 200 lbs. Are you sure that you aren't just going with too aggressive of a pad? Confidence is definitely more important than losing a couple feet of stopping distance in a braking zone.
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I've been running Project Mu Club Racer pads for a while now which are .42-.55 CF. They're are a step under the 999 and Winmax W7 and other "full race" pads. I don't think they are too aggressive, I think my experience is bringing me into corners with higher entry speeds than before and my braking demands are exceeding the stock fronts ability to dissipate the heat enough inbetween corners; even with the help of the ducting. I've had hints of fade before at all tracks but the ducting kept the temps under "control" before they would actually fade into the following corner. The glazing and accelerated wear still happens and it has recently been very uneven on the fronts. I actually had to swap the front pads left to right at Road Atlanta a couple weeks ago after seeing the driver's side pads worn several mm more than the passenger's side. I realize my titanium shims are trapping the heat in the pads and probably contributing to the accelerated wear but they are a catch-22 I deemed necessary to keep the heat out of the dust boots and ultimately the fluid. Like I said before I considered trying different pads but I'm not sure they'd make a big difference in performance and most importantly my confidence in the system as a whole.
I don't want to brake earlier and baby my brakes. I want to do the opposite
Quote:
Originally Posted by gramicci101
Would using GT3 brake ducts on the rear as well be beneficial at all?
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I don't think it's necessary since the rear brakes don't get nearly as hot as the fronts. I haven't experienced abnormal wear or heat issues with mine, nor have I heard any AP Sprint BBK owners deem the stock rear rotors and calipers as being incapable of track abuse on their own. Also the rear LCA on our cars doesn't have the same curved profile that allows the guides to work at the right angle and "scoop" the air towards the rotors. They are just flat.