Quote:
Originally Posted by ATL BRZ
I have a proper cooling duct system installed that directs air into the center of the rotors and through the vanes, which is supposed to be the most effective way.
This setup has been okay for a while with titanium shims, Miller's racing brake fluid, and PMU Club Racer pads but my driving on track has gotten to the point where I'm glazing race pads and burning through them quickly. Not fading but definitely over heating, glazing, and wearing very quickly.
Instead of spending more money on stock size race pads I've ordered the AP Racing Sprint BBK to lose some weight and lower my long term operating costs since I'm at the track every month or so. The pads are much thicker and cheaper with a bigger variety of compounds available. Since the BBK is very thermally efficient in its own, I will be selling my Touge Factory cooling kit since the backing plates can no longer be used and I want there to be plenty of room up front for an intercooler and associated plumbing in the future. Not interested in creating any additional openings in front which add drag and complexity with hoses.
@ glamcem I'd be very nervous driving with that hose setup on a 1-2" lowered car with 245 or wider tires. The hoses can get snagged on an object you drive over and wide enough tires could rub the hoses at full lock steering angles. |
There's nothing to be nervous at all
my setup is pretty much the same thing with APR brake ducting (that costs about $650) and uses the same 600 degree aircraft ducting material (as well as the Touge Factory kit) so basically people spend about $300+ for the spindle alone, and for a piece of aluminum I figured money can be well spent elsewhere.. I feel the OEM spindle is a lot better design ..if you ask me this is a lot better spindle/backing plate
http://bmautosports.com/shop/brakes/...g-duct-brzfrs/ since it uses the OEM design and the flange opening is bigger than the TF kit ..but of course it still costs a lot of money, if you are not comfortable with cutting the OEM spindle you can always get something like this (not sure if it would work with the AP racing kit though) for your future FI plans..also I wouldn't really worry about the drag effects of the small fog light area since many of the sports cars (such as Z06s ) come with similar designs and it should be negligible and I highly doubt the difference is quantifiable
Speaking of the rubbing, I have been using 17x9 wheels and
I have plenty of space even at full lock, my tires are nowhere near close to the ducting hoses and that's with 1.5" drop with my Fortune Auto coilovers I will probably get 255/40/17 Nitto Nt01 next time since I have plenty of space and my SC demands for it..
when it comes to preventive maintenance I am really really picky , and at the track I never baby my car
it's more like flat out all the time
Did I mention that this is not the first routing I tried? my initial methods didn't really work well I tried to use a custom made aluminum plate that I made with a plastic flange ..
I figured the only routing that may work well is the one that goes underneath the control arms since the tire itself will create enough clearance
Did you ever try using different pads on your car before pulling the trigger on the AP racing kit? such as DTC 60s, ST43s or Carbotechs? The reason I am asking is because if you don't see any abnormal wear on your rotor the problem is probably your brake pads .. again I am a bit skeptical about the brake bias even with the EBD, and I might change the whole setup (front and rears) when I am ready to upgrade ..weight savings are also huge plus as you mentioned,