Quote:
Originally Posted by gmsii
harmonic balancer is a misnomer....the proper term is harmonic damper. all factory crank pulleys are harmonic dampers. going to a non-dampened lightweight aluminum pulley is a step backwards...a step forward would be an ATI damper or maybe have one custom made by BHJ.
here is a link to the ATI product:
http://www.atiracing.com/products/da...dam-subaru.htm
Here is a link to BHJ and also technical whitepapers about the importance of Harmonic Dampers:
http://www.bhjdynamics.com/index.php...vrsueignutk6u3
as for locking up and spinning out...dont dump the clutch. aside from that if you are trying to make the engine 'blip' faster, the crank pulley is the wrong place to look for that response. as was said before, start in the areas with the highest MOI (moment of inertia)..the crank pulley does not have enough mass or diameter to significantly impact the rate the engine spins up or spins down.....start at the flywheel and clutch package. an ideal set-up for you would be an ultralight flywheel combined with a 7" twin-disc carbon clutch (which you can feather and ride/slip all you want if you need to)...if the clutch isnt in the budget, even the flywheel alone will make a significant difference. |
thanks for all the technical info
it seems like my best bet is to get a lighter flywheel as you suggested (probably a Exedy Stage 1 clutch since I prefer the OEM engagement) once I do that I will most likely change clutch at the same time
as for locking up, I never really dump the clutch but I perform late brake and try to carry as much as corner speed as I can, so my driving style requires me to operate very quick downshift/rev matching .. this may never be an issue for someone who uses his/hers car at street/auto-x but it's quite important for track use imo