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Old 05-13-2014, 04:44 PM   #11
ddeflyer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSG Mike View Post
Actually, it's the complete opposite. As a generalization:

500-1500 suspension: downgrade from stock, but gives you adjustability
2000-3000: definite performance upgrade, but ride is typically compromised
3500-6000: continued performance upgrade, ride can be as good as or better than stock with the proper valving.

Once you're looking at the high end dampers, you cannot go wrong with any of the brands (JRZ, Penske, Ohlins, Sachs). Typically, you go with whatever your local damper specialist is most familiar/comfortable with.

In our case, JRZ and Tein are local to us (within 15 miles), so we favor those brands. We also have direct access to custom valving Penske and Ohlins, as well as Bilsteins and Konis (with 50 miles of CSG)

We work manufacturer direct with JRZ, Tein, Penske, and Ohlins, but typically have JRZ, Penske, and Ohlins revalved/serviced locally.

With the high end dampers, expect to spend some extra getting a revalve or two, based on your preferences, to really dial in the damping exactly how you want.


For example, you can have a race spec damping curve, and still maintain acceptable street ride (high spring rates; firm, but not harsh ride), or a very comfortable street ride using low spring rates, but still have much improved cornering performance (low spring rates, plush, but not vague/slow to respond in cornering)


At the last Winmax 86 CUP event, the front runners in mod and supermod classes are both on JRZ suspension. The usual frontrunners in Street class (who didn't make it to this event) are on Ohlins and Teins.

Barring the driver mod, the common element is high end dampers.
Ok, that is awesome, I like broad improvements!

So how much does re-valving typically cost?

Also, what is usually the best approach for ride height? I don't really have a preference one way or another but I assume there are trade offs to stock and lowered heights, right?
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