I got maybe 5 laps at Gingerman before the brakes faded on HC800 and stock Rotors. Switched to XP10, held up 10 laps. Continued with setup for 4 more session until the Rotors were toast. Next track day switched to 4000DBA and XP12. Much better, no fade. But braking felt inconsistent over the long haul.
Fluid held up no issues. DBAs were good for about another 2 hours track driving (1 hour sessions) and then the high temp paint market activated. And further driving after that was inconsistent. On the street oem pads were quickly destroyed from the rotor waviness. And by that time 850+ dollars later on pads and rotors, the BBK made more sense and cheaper on paper. Track peformance was night and day. Pedal feel consistency everything. But really f-up the pad choices for street, and wound up switching around. etc etc.
Now I feel like I have a setup that pseudo works, but the BBK has to come off in the winter or I am looking at a rebuild due the heavy, heavy amount of road salts.
I don't think people get it but there is no magic answer of what works best or not, I consulted with Mike on pads and setups but climate plays a big factor here.
Yesterday it was 75F here, tomorrow morning we are supposed to get 1-2" of snow. Most of the data on this platform comes from the Cali region, not really applicable in some cases.
In terms of using the grooved 1521s we had a big debate about it. The fact that we spent 3 hours installing the new rotors, the argument was do we really want to throw on grooved pads that could potentially grove the new rotors out of the gate?
Not so much a big deal for street but when we get to the track, I don't want to deal with any brake feel vibration etc. I get spooked to easy.
So we stuck with the Hawks Essex sent. They are totally fine for the street, and pedal feel is about 75% improved over stock. Massive difference.
In terms of oil temps I disagree, the normal operating oil temperature on this type of motor is 190-212 degrees. That's where it tends to settle. In the winter its usually a 10 minute affair to reach those temps without the oil cooler. But with the oil cooler it takes 20 minutes to reach barely 160F. And remember the oil usually starts out at roughly 35-40 degrees and is still about at 110F for the first 8 minutes or so depending on temp.
It's not the 160F that bothers me its the excessively long time the oil is spent in the cold zone, which is where the most engine wear occurs.
But yes, part of all this is the time to get things sorted and figured out. Like your power steering units. Thats where a lot of the money and time comes in.
Next year I could tell someone with confidence, "this is how this works in this condition, and what to expect."
I did not get that luxury.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZDan
Conclusions?
It's just bizarre to go from $400 "street" pads which must be overkill, to literally the worst street pads imaginable. I know Carbotech and others go on about transfer layers, but I've *never* had any issues swapping XP8 and XP10 pads out for street pads (OEM on the s2000, Centric and even Duralast Gold on the FD).
Well, if you throw enough mud on the wall, something's bound to stick sooner or later. But you're taking a maximum effort/maximum expenditure approach where it really shouldn't be necessary.
I would have just used those grooved street pads instead of throwing them out. I would feel a bit miffed about expensive rotors that warped, when lesser rotors can be used on these cars without issue.
PITA, but yeah, par for the course. I went through three power steering pumps in short order on my LS-engined FD for stupid reasons, but now it is sorted and shouldn't be a problem. Hopefully this is the case for your supercharger (fingers crossed).
That's absurd. I would *much* sooner live with 160F oil temps than go to the trouble of disconnecting the whole thing. 0W20 synthetic at 160F is not going to hurt a damn thing. Again, WAY too much time/effort/money expended for absolutely nothing. Just leave it hooked up.
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