Shout out to @
FT-86 SpeedFactory first off, since that's where I picked these up. Yo answered my questions quickly, and Jeremy had the package to my door before my card was even billed.
I'll get day pics up tomorrow, since it's now dark.
Since we have an extra hour of daylight, I decided to tackle this when I got home today. It took about 2 hours, and most of that was me being terrible at wiring. There was a (very) short installation guide in the box, which sadly mislabled wire colors a few times. Eventually, I just used what little I know about wiring and relays to do it freehand. Turned out well.
The harness is plenty long if you route it correctly. I ended up tapping the switch power wire into the fusebox under the steering wheel, and grounded it to a nearby bolt. I pulled out the rubber gasket in the firewall a bit, which allowed me to slide the switch harness into the engine bay. From there, I ran it under the cowl, which ended up with the relay and fuse by the OEM fusebox.
The leads to the lamps I ran from the fusebox area and straight down for the pass side. I snaked the drivers lead along the fan shroud and airbox, and down into the bumper. Can't see it at all, and it's safe from heat
Sadly, that's the end of the good news.
The lamp housings are all plastic, as noted in other posts. Not a huge deal, but the plastic used is pretty cheap. The tabs on the housings that are used to mount did NOT fit into the bumper. I used a Dremel to remove the interference easily enough, but it was a minor inconvenience. Since the lamp housings are not unique R and L, I had to install one upside down (since the beam adjuster was contacting the front marker, and preventing mounting). Again, not a huge deal, but a side effect of cost cutting for sure. When you slide the (now clearanced) tabs into the bumper, you then use the supplied screw and plastic backing piece to secure the outside of the housings. I would have preferred metal bolts to plastic backing, but whatever. What DID irk me was that there were only 2 screws supplied for the 4 total holes. I don't think that the lamps are going to pop out, but I would have preferred a full set of hardware.
Finally, the bulbs. They are 19W H16, which isn't a huge deal, but it does limit options for alternative bulbs. I opted to stick with halogens for now, and the output is pretty yellow, but I may change to a true yellow bulb (more on that later). The bulbs simply "clip" into the housings, which means they're not nearly as secure as an H11/H7 twist in style. I was fighting with the pass bulb for about 15 mins, as it would NOT stay lit once mounted. I removed it to inspect, and one of the prongs that plugs into the harness was stuck in the harness; it had broken off once connected. Not sure if this is Spyder's fault or not, but it's pretty disappointing.
Finally, the bezel/surrounds look great, but they don't clip in fully. Not sure why, I checked all clearances, it just seems they don't fully seat. Again, I don't think they're gonna fly off on the highway, and you can't really tell unless you're looking for it. But I know...and so I look for it
Here are some night shots of the lamps, as well as the switch panel. Don't mind the hairy leg.
The indicator light on the switch is orange, which matches the orange in the center console/HVAC stuff. This is either great or terrible, depending on your preference (though really, nobody will ever see it). Panel fits great, but the switch is a bit diff texture/color than the other buttons.
They look a bit more yellow in person (and my HIDs look less blue as well)...the downside of phone photography.
Light spread with and without headlights.
Daytime pics - they LOOK great, if nothing else:
I really like how the blacked out marker makes the fog lamp stand out more and keeps the area looking less "cluttered"
Here you can see some of the bezel fitment issues I was talking about. It's hard to capture it on camera, and it's small enough that you don't notice it unless you're looking for it at the right angle, but perfectionists beware!
