Quote:
Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering
Toe will be slightly affected front and rear. You'll want an alignment after installing the springs.
You don't necessarily need to add anything to the springs. However....
For the front, the "OEM" camber bolts are like 10 bucks and make a huge difference. I think every car should have them and they should have come with them from the factory. It lets you get a little more camber up front and even it out. You'd be happier with close to -1 degrees or a little more for DD. Very noticeable difference in handling. Everyone just really should do this, even without adding springs. 
For the rear, you have 3 options. LCAs, rear whiteline camber bushings, and nothing.
LCAs are more expensive but easy to install and adjust.
The rear camber bushings are cheaper but a pain to install and a bigger pain to adjust. They do also add a slight performance benefit in that it's a firmer bushing.
Doing nothing is actually not a bad option as you'll end up approximately where you need to be with our mild drop RCE Yellows. Any more drop and you'd probably want to do something.
I'm anal and like things to be "perfect" and equal side-to-side, so I'd probably do something. But that doesn't mean you need to.
- Andy |
Thanks for this Andy, so now I have a bit of a follow on question.
What would be the ideal alignment specs for a car lowered on Yellows, 90-95% DD, few times a year on a track or auto-x, 17X8.5 +38, 245/40-17's?
And, can I achieve this without any additional parts, or should I at least add OEM bolts? How about for the rear? (I think you've kind of answered this above, I'm just trying to make sure I understand what's a good spec and how to make that happen.)