Quote:
Originally Posted by fistpoint
Of course, that's why it is important to use one of the last 3 vent settings to activate the process. Doing this somehow closes the "leak" that is allowing engine air instead of actual outside air into the vents and also obviously cools the air still inside the plumbing since the compressor has come on temporarily.
I've been doing it for the last 2 months, it does work and something is definitely happening in the process. However, sometimes it requires a couple attempts, but when it works the air has clearly gone from warm to cold, and yes, the vent is now on a setting that does not have the compressor running. I only use the first three(face, face/floor, floor).
In the other threads about this, the people that acknowledged the issue but didn't dismiss it like the foolish ones suggested a valve that isn't closing that is designed to prevent this. All that info coupled with my own experience since then suggests to me it's simply a shitty design in this vehicle and any vehicle that exhibits the same behavior. That and the simple fact that all my previous vehicles of the same make as well as all the other people who also never had this issue before on similar makes to my cars is all the evidence I need.
Some cars do it, some don't. Those that don't simply have a better design. It shouldn't be an argument. We aren't retards who forgot to move the temp dial or didn't know that red is hot and blue is cold. It's the design, period.
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Wow thanks GOD I finally come across someone who do understands I'm not crazy or dumb talking about this. To me it's plain not acceptable this is happening, my previous car an ancient toyota celica liftback GT 1979 year whenever I shift the knob to cold pumps cold air not Hot or warm. And I'll tell you even more the AC gets even more freezing than on this car.
By the way can you explain me more in detail the process. What should I do to get cold air blowing shifting the knob cold blue. And why is tihs going on. Didn't get it quite clear. Thanks !