Quote:
Originally Posted by RFB
The pics on this forum of condensation (and all the ones I've seen) show condensation forming on the inside tops of the tail lights. This is indicative of water getting in on top. If left unchecked enough water gets in to collect on the bottom.
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While I agree that the top of the housing is the most assaulted with water from the stupid design of the trunk, it doesn't mean that's where the water/moisture is getting in, because hot air (and the water molecules in it) rises - that's why it shows up in the top of the housing first.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RFB
It is also important to follow the tsb with regards to peening the car body bolt holes, tightening torque etc. for flush mounting otherwise all else is in vain.
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Definitely. Sadly the dealership techs generally take a "who needs to read the instructions!?" approach. You can straighten out the body holes with a couple of big washers, a bolt and a nut. put a washer on either side of the sheet metal and crank it down.
The torque specs for the 4 tail light mounting nuts are 3.25 ftlbs/39 inlbs/4.4 Nm.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dem00n
I've done it all under the sun. New custom cut gaskets, double gaskets, silicone and so forth.
I'll try the caulk, but it's the underbody of the taillight of which moisture from the air gets in, not so much the rainflow or waterfowl from the trunk. There have been days where there is no water at all touching the car and i'll still get it. I live near the water, theres moisture in the air all day.
I've spent over $60 on fixing a seal of taillight, boy doesn't that sound stupid?
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Whoa, whoa, wait ... DOUBLE gaskets? Why?
The dealer replaced your housings for you once, right? If so, and they didn't over torque them, the housings are probably fine. I recommend starting from a blank slate, addressing each possible issue.
- Housings Cracked?
- Sheet metal holes warped?
- Gasket properly and fully sealed all the way around the ridge on the back of the housing?
Assuming the housings are fine (after they're dry), try and straighten out the sheet metal if it's bent/warped with the bolt/washer method above. PM me with your shipping info and I'll send you a newly manufactured set of gaskets with a tube of the 3M Automotive Weatherstrip Adhesive for free (I think you bought a hand-cut set from me a while back). Also get some kind of adhesive tack (snowman snot) that RFB uses, and block the water from flowing over the top as he's shown multiple times in this thread. The combination of properly sealing the (better) gaskets all the way around with the weatherstrip adhesive AND the snowman snot dam AND ensuring the sheet metal/housings are sound and I don't see how you'd still be getting condensation.
We really want this issue to be resolved for you - we know how frustrating it is.
Note: When applying the Weatherstrip Adhesive, apply a thick bead directly onto the ridge of the tail light housing, then press the gasket down onto it. With a fresh, uncompressed gasket, you won't know exactly where the sealant should go and could miss a spot if you apply it to the gasket first. It should make a solid bead all the way around.
I'll be making an instructional video for all of this soon.
I live in VA but I visit Upstate NY frequently (I'm from the Albany area originally). If you're still having problems I'd be happy to stop in on the way up and help get this issue resolved.