Quote:
Originally Posted by MonkeyBoy
My last car was a Lexus IS350 with 306 HP rear wheel drive. I kept Michelin super sports on it. It was very fast (0-60 in 5.6 sec), but lacked the road feel and balance the FR-S Has. In the rain with the super sports it gripped like mad. I also missed a manual transmission. The motor on the IS was amazing, but the transmission on the IS sucked. it was dandy for casually riding around town, but when you really wanted to push it, it slow shifted and the paddle shifters were a joke.
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That's crank HP. WHP is different. Plus that car weighed 800lbs more than the FRS. Coming from an STi the 300 crank hp (240-250 whp) stock was slow compared to the HP after a full exhaust and tune (I road tuned so no dyno numbers, but cars with similar mods were generally in the 350ish crank, 285-310 whp range). Power to pass is nice and sometimes I do miss it but for now dropping two gears instead of one works, and riding in tuned cars I know that will be more then enough for a DD and keep reliability and better mpg than boost (I was gonna go SC myself the whole way, but have changed my mind after experiencing different setups and a ton research)
But anyway if you want answers to your questions specifically you could install the vortech yourself in a weekend. I think there may be a diy on here, but the install instructions are pretty good (I know a local who did it themselves).
And Ichi hit it again, factory boost is different. There are 4 locals who are boosted that I know. 3 of them have issues. Ymmv., but just putting it out there.
Otherwise all I can say is you gotta pay to play. Its a balance of how much are you willing to pay versus a shop/tuners reputation. Just because they do the work doesn't mean they are good. Ask the people who use it as a regular track prepped car would be a good place to start.