Quote:
Originally Posted by rice_classic
Just slap a little anti-seize on your lugs an go. You'll be just fine.
Edit: I have to elaborate some so people don't think it's a bad idea.
Porsche recommends it in their factory manuals:
" Thinly grease thread, shank and under head (between screw head bearing surface and spherical cap ring) of the wheel bolts with Optimoly TA (aluminum paste). Do not grease bearing surface of the spherical cap facing the wheel. If heavily contaminated, clean bolts first with a lint-free cloth."
Personal Experience:
At the race track when wheel lugs are torqued to spec on dry studs what often happens is they bond themselves to the studs after the heat/abuse of the race track and when try to remove them it is very very difficult. So much so that I've broken a stud right off while trying to loosen a lug. This is where I learned of the necessity to use a little anti-seize on the stud threads. If you're changing/removing wheels in between sessions at the track (aka: when hot), it's something you're going to want to do. I've been racing with anti-seize on my studs for almost a decade now and since then I haven't broken a stud since.
Anti-seize is not oil, it's not moly.. it's just a soft metal (nickel/copper) with a mild lube as a carrier. It's does very little to affect the torque value especially when it's not being applied to contact faces of the things being torqued together.
Just some more fun reading:
http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/7...-the-question!
"As a technician for over 20 years I have done many different things, mostly based on employer based requirements.
Now a few years ago I was working at a Firestone Mastercare. Well we got Modern Tire Dealer magazine and in that publication for the record one of the tire/wheel/whatever groups did proper investigation and found that "silver" nickle based anti-seize is fine and even recommended as it does not change torque values by any more than 5% but actually normalize the fastener torquing.
And if you ever look at any properly maintained semi or trailer you will see anti-seize on the wheel studs.
So silver nickle based anti-seize is ok and even recommended this will keep things from rusting, prevent things from binding or galling."
The other thing to consider is that a closed wheel stud is such that it keeps the elements away from the stud and it's threads. When running open lugs, the studs are exposed to the elements and corrosion will eventually occur so for a daily driven application where open lugs are part of the equation it can keep the corrosion down as well as keep the lug from corroding to the stud. |
This is an excellent post.
The Metal "fusion" is galvanic corrosion I previously mentioned.