Quote:
Originally Posted by rice_classic
Looks like you're doing everything right.
ARP: Check
Open lugs: Check
Brake ducting: Check
High temp fluid: Check
Some other ideas that might improve the longevity of some items:
1: put a little anti-seize on the wheel studs. It helps if you need to take the lugs off when things are really hot.
2: Wrap your ball joints/tie-rod joints in heat reflective tape so the heat from the brakes doesn't destroy the grease in them or destroy the boots around them.
3: Titanium backing plates can help as a thermal barrier between the inside brake pad and the pistons which can go a long way to keeping those dust boots in your calipers in tact.
4: HP PLUS!? I would definitely recommend a race pad considering your time on track and tire choice. Porterfield R4, Hawk DTC-70, Raybestos ST43 or 45. etc etc. Changing pads at the track requires a 14mm wrench and 5 minutes of your time... Might as well.
http://porterfield-brakes.com/index.php |
The anti seize I use goes on the back of the wheel, against the rotor. I dunno, lube on lug and my driving style would sit in the back of my head all wrong I think, unless you tell me the carrier for the copper in the anti seize is not a petroleum base
Otherwise,
I agree with 2 3 &4 spot on
But I track hard
Don't have arp
Don't have open lug
Take a brass tooth brush from your tool box to the threads, make sure they are clean and be sure the rotor isn't rusting where the wheel contacts. I never have issues with lugs getting stuck, and i am anti impact pro tq wrench on lugs, most folk over tighten, I had a shop wind mine up to 100....
Now manifold, exhaust bolts, those get anti seize.
Failing at brakes so far and have yet to go pay Essex my wad.
My brakes aren't ducted, and they suck. So maybe you're onto something there! I just am not sure adding ducting will give me the thermal capacity I need, in the same physical volume of pad and rotor. I have only tried a ds2500 in stock size, are any of you convinced these setup plus track specific pads offer enough stop to not want a unrated brake kit for an Fi car?
I am on r comps with oe studs and steel lugs, no issue, do you guys think I should be worried about catastrophic failure of all five studs since I drive like an idiot on oe studs?
And yes, factory brake fluid in these cars is horse piss