Quote:
Originally Posted by nalc
Looks really good, I didn't realize someone else was going with this idea. I can post a circuit schematic if you need any help, the OEM stuff is wired all in series, so each signal goes through all the resistors below it.
So Seek Up shorts out the pins. Seek down connects a 330 ohm resistor. Volume up connects a 670 ohm resistor in series with the 330. Volume down connects a 2110 ohm resistor in series with the 670 and the 330.
Do you have a plan for addressing Mode/Voice? They're electrically isolated on the factory SWCs, but you've got them on a single DPDT switch. There's probably a way, but I'm a very visual type of engineer, and I can't really think through how it would work without drawing a schematic.
One thing I've thought of doing was getting a piece of plastic and molding it into the start button cubbyhole, then bondoing over it and sanding and painting so it's smooth, then installing the heated seat switches there, like in a NC Miata. I got turned off though because I am adamant about not significantly modifying factory wiring. I'm fine inserting pins, and I'm fine modding a $15 trim piece that I could replace if I had to, but I don't want to mess with relocating the heated seat switches, unless there were extension cords available for them that would plug into the switches and into the harness.
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Hey, Nalc, glad to have your input. I think I have the resistances thought out. Rather than putting a 330 and 670 in series, I'll just switch over to a 1000 ohm resistor. But I will try to draw it up as I would value your review.
I do fear that I misinterpreted you post with respect to Mode and Voice. I had thought that they both come off pin 22... Uh oh. That may require a rethink.
Pin 21:
Seek Up 0 Ohms
Seek Down 330 Ohms
Volume Up 1000 Ohms
Volume Down 3110 Ohms
No buttons 100K Ohms
Pin 22:
Mode 0 Ohms
On hook 330 Ohms
Off hook 1000 Ohms
Talk 3110 Ohms
No buttons 100K Ohms
Pin 23 is the common wire for the SWCs
I'm going to buy a new console for $50 to cut up. I'm hoping there is enough wire on the heaters that I can shift them to the front of the cubby where the 12v socket is. I haven't pulled it apart yet so all of this is theoretical... But I agree the cubby hole next to the start button is another possibility.
As far as progress not a lot will happen in the next couple of weeks. I close onto house on the 19th. Then hopefully I'll get my shipment from Qatar soon thereafter.
If someone wants to carry this forward I'm happy to pass on the plaquemaker.com design for your use. They really drop in price the more you make.
Thanks for the feedback all!
Bob