Quote:
Originally Posted by wparsons
If you adjust camber with an adjustable LCA you WILL have to adjust toe, how much camber you're changing will dictate if you need toe links with more adjustment than stock or not.
If you get an adjustable UCA you won't have to change the toe setting when you adjust camber, but they're more expensive than LCAs.
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In other words, getting LCAs and toe links would solve all of the issues I could possibly have with camber.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Suberman
Front toe adjustment is done equally to each tie rod otherwise the steering wheel will be off center. The steering wheel won't go slowly off center it will be at a particular point off center resulting from unequal changes to tie rod length. Front toe always equalizes by moving the steering rack to split toe left to right so all toe adjustments must be equal at the front.
Unequal camber on the same axle will cause the steering wheel to go off center in order to drive straight and this will change with speed.
Rear toe is set separately left and right, if adjustable which I suspect it is. However, unless you are compensating for some other alignment defect or for some odd reason want the car to handle differently left to right (NASCAR style) rear toe should be the same each side.
Offset or wheel or tire width has no effect on suspension settings but, in extreme cases may benefit from suspension changes.
There is no need to go wide enough or far enough from factory offset to require alignment settings to be changed from stock.
If you track or Autocross competitively against others then by all means try suspension adjustments otherwise there is no point departing from Subaru's carefully engineered settings. If you are timing only your own improvements why confuse the issue by "improving" the car also? This car is slow, don't spend any money trying to make it fast, unless you hang a supercharger on the engine, then maybe it needs more grip.
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I have tried only once to change between the sets and that's when I first got my Volks and had to do a tie rod alignment since the steering wheel just didn't feel right and the car wasn't driving straight if I kept my hands off the steering wheel for a few seconds. Never tried to switch between the sets again but I heard from a few guys that if I'm going back to my old set-up then another alignment is in need because of the different offsets, different width of the wheel and I didn't buy that but since I'm a newbie to suspension geometry, might as well just learn the hard way and that's to try it myself and so I decided to ask for playing around with the camber and toe for two reasons and they would be:
1- To learn
2- to give the car the amount of camber I need for track and for just normal daily driving/shows.
Looks like what they have said is wrong and I will try to switch between the sets this week and tell you how it goes. But, to get this over with I would need to buy whiteline bushings, front crash bolts and toe links to solve all of the issues I would encounter with achieving a bit of camber for a little bit of track/drift and for DD/show.