I guess I've been threadjacking other people's threads for long enough.
Knocking my door amps out for a bit got me moving on a full-fledged audio build. I'd been avoiding it for a few reasons... the first being that I didn't want to spend the money (still don't, see budget below), but I also didn't want to get into the complexity of a major SQ build, especially since it was going to be for my own personal enjoyment and not competitions. I was convinced that I didn't want to add weight to the car where I could help it, and unfortunately that's pretty much going to be the side effect of doing a quality build.
So here are some of the limitations I'm going to be working with.
- I want to keep the stock OEM Subaru Navi head-unit for the time being. I may decide to upgrade it later, but for now it does most of what I want and it's already there.
- I have a set of Alpine Type 6.5" X-REF components (SPX-17REF) lying around minus the crossovers which were accidentally damaged. This means that the final product will be Active 2-way or 3 - way system. If anyone's curious here's the specs on them: Alpine-SPX-17REF
- I need a processor with time alignment, especially if I decide to put the tweeters into the A pillars. I'll also need a processor that could handle a 3 way split, preferably a 4 way so I could have a 3 way front stage and then a sub channel. I was preferring the MS-8 as the primary option, and have seen them for less than $500 on Amazon, so it's a reasonable option with my budget, but I'm also open for input on other processors.
- I also have a 10" sealed sub box that's approximately .7 cubic ft airspace that I'd like to re-use. It had an old Rockfort Fosgate Sub from the 90's in it that sounded awesome, but in the past couple of years the surround deteriorated and is now cracking off, so I want to get something nice sounding back in that box.
- Since I have the drivers, my budget for the sub, 5 channel amp and processor will be roughly $1000 (and I'll be shopping around for the best prices on these items so I think that's do-able)
- I've already picked up the wiring for the amp, I went with 4 gauge since I was only planning on powering a 5 channel amp and a processor and not going with a multi-amp setup.
- I'd also like to do this in a staged fashion, so that I'm not spending everything at once. I'd like to buy the amp and the sub first.
- Based on the builds that I've seen, I'm thinking that I'm just going to hang the amp and the processor under the package tray, that will keep the trunk somewhat usable. I have a fused distribution box and an inline fuse to wire things properly back there.
- I've already reinforced the chassis ground with 0 gauge wire... but have not done the "Big 3" wiring mods.
I was pretty decent at this 12V stuff before... I only really stopped because I kept having issues with my back that took weeks and months to recover from and having that long time between being able to complete jobs meant that I finally just got my audio to a point where I could live with it, and then didn't take it any further.
I actually re-injured my back this past weekend, which has scared me a little since I wonder if it's a sign that I should just leave things well enough alone... but I've gotten to the point where I want this car to sound better... so I'm going to press forward... once I've recovered enough that I won't re-injure myself.
Staged Build:
- STAGE 1 - Wire in the amp and the subwoofer, minor sound deadening (rattle control) in the trunk and package tray.
- STAGE 2 - Major Sound deadening in the trunk and cabin. Wire the runs for the speakers to the doors and dash from the trunk.
- STAGE 3 - Purchase sound processor and possibly mid-range drivers. Hook everything up and tune.
- STAGE 4 - Crank it up and enjoy it!!!!
So the first step of Stage 1 is to determine the 5 channel amp and sub driver, and I know that the drivers I have like the power, and will be hooked up active. Alpine says 8-75W RMS in the specs, but I'm wondering what I should be realistically looking at per channel, and since I'm not going to have the OEM passive crossovers in the circuit, what do I actually need to be feeding to that midbass driver and to the tweeter. I've noticed that some of the new amps have speaker level inputs so that seems to be the way to get some bass in the car quickly.
Suggestions and education are definitely welcome. I know enough to be dangerous, but I'd welcome everyone's input since there's still a lot of stuff I need to figure out. I had just started to get into the heavy math type theoretical stuff before, but I also just like to tune by ear, I'm an ex-musician so I respond to music and sound on mostly an instinctive level anyways.
I'll start posting pics once I get started on wiring trunk for the amp.