Hybrid audio speakers should be here today. Install is tomorrow
I did get my subwoofer box built yesterday. I was originally going to go with a wedge sub that would fit in the back, but after thinking it through, I decided to go with more of a thin flat box design. This would allow me to maximize placement in terms of firing to the back, top, or bottom. So I can move the woofer around to determine where it sounds the best. The Pioneer SSW251 driver is a 10" shallow driver and specs show that the ideal size box is about .46 cu sq ft, and it can be as small as about .35 cu sq ft. My target was the .46 cu sq ft range, and accounting for the driver volume (these shallow drivers are really cool in that you can really fit them in a smaller box) and material thickness, I ended up with a 19" wide box that is 13" tall, and 6" deep. So pretty small and it will not take up much space.
I like this subwoofer enclosure volume calculator:
http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...me-calculator/
I did go with baltic birch wood due to the fact that it is lighter than MDF and has excellent properties for good sound and is not as soft as MDF or nearly as messy to work with. The trick is getting good 13 ply birch that is void free, but I was lucky in that Mendards carries some and I had lots left over from a previous project. All I needed was a single 2x2 sheet that was $9.
Some tips I will share. I highly recommend one of these for cutting the woofer holes:
It is a Jasper Jig 200, and makes cutting holes effortless and much more professional looking versus using a jig. I already owned one from my home theater subwoofer builds.
Another tip. When gluing the box together I recommend PL Premium adhesive. Why? Because as it dries, it expands and you are much less likely to have any air leaks, I also run a bead on all the inside seams as well to ensure no air leaks. Definitely buy some cheap disposable rubber or vinyl gloves though because this stuff sucks if it gets on your hands and it is messier than wood glue. You can usually find it for under $5 or so:
To finish the box, I am going to sand it and then apply Duratex (this is designed specifically for speaker cabinets) with a smooth roller. I still have half a can and I prefer it to carpet:
I will get some pictures tonight with the woofer installed in the box. I am not going to have time to sand and paint the box before tomorrow AM (Duratex has a pretty long cure time), but I wanted to have the box ready for tomorrow for the installer.
Cost so far for the sub.. $65 for the driver. $9 for wood (had scraps already). $5 for PL Premium. $5 for industrial strength Velcro straps. $4 for 4" smooth texture rollers.
$88 dollars so far. I already had a terminal cap and speaker wire. See how it sounds and I like it, but I think this will do the trick. Again, I am not looking for overpowering bass in my car, just something to smooth frequency response.
Pictures to come... Looking forward to the install tomorrow..