View Single Post
Old 01-04-2012, 10:36 PM   #55
Dave-ROR
Site Moderator
 
Dave-ROR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Drives: Stuff
Location: Florida
Posts: 10,317
Thanks: 955
Thanked 5,965 Times in 2,689 Posts
Mentioned: 262 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by lfawishes View Post
I believe you, you must be a good driver to be so consistent. Yeah just don't see the brakes lasting past 5 laps on any road track where you are reaching top gear, and going as low as second gear. Theres nothing worse than heavy brake fade, especially if you are a novice, and if you never ever fade the brakes you ain't doing something right! nobodies that good. Also when the brakes do fade like that you aren't measuring their heat during the most extreme usage. Of course something like auto-x bbk is totally unneeded.
Novices do tend to generate brake fade due to style (dragging brakes is extremely common with newer track drivers). If you are doing it right, and have a proper brake setup, you should NEVER experience fade. Fade is bad in all forms. Sure, I've experienced it, and then I fixed whatever was causing it, whether it was driving style, adding cooling, changing pads, not being lazy anymore about fluid changes, etc.

For Rotors you can use rotor temp paint in varying temps to measure which temp you have passed, and which you haven't. It's not accurate since it's a 150-200 degrees or so between paint colors, but at least you'll know that you (for example) have exceeded 1000F but not 1250F, so you can pick brake pads in the 1200F range.

For Calipers you can use the stickers, which remember the max temp, that will also help determine if you are going past the point where the brake fluid will vaporize (and/or how close you are to that point) so you know if you need to add cooling.

Both of those measure it at it's worse. If you measure it quickly on pit lane it will be cooled down, but not all that much so you'll still have an idea (example, if you see 1100F rotor temps by the time you stop on pit lane obviously you wouldn't want to be using pads with a max operating temp of 1000F).

Quote:
Brakes on the gazoo are clearly heavy duty as the speeds of the ring surely require it. We know TRDs doing BBK for jdm at least, I'm hoping subaru offers the same.
Actually we don't know anything about the gazoo brakes. They have 4 pots (maybe, they may just be fake covers but I suspect that they are 4 pots after looking at pics) but they may be normal 11.6" rotors. If that's the case they likely used those calipers because they had them and wanted the better modulation and pad wear (mostly what a 4 pot type fixed caliper setup gives you, yes a little more fluid capacity also so a little longer before fluid vaporizes but not much). They could also be 12.8" rotors. No one has measured them and I'm not sure there's any pics good enough to estimate the rotor size... I'll have to look and see if I can find any that might give us an idea

They might, but as stated in here, there are some options for the fronts at least (and the rears likely have large enough rotors but may need more agressive pads if you upgrade the front) for very cheap.

Quote:
I understand your point about the upgradeability of pads/lines/fluid, however you are looking at 500 bucks right there.
Lines won't be needed (coated SS ones are fine though, I have nothing against them). Fluid and pads should be done regardless of what brake setup you have on the car so I don't see how the cost will be any different and may be cheaper with the stock calipers/rotors than a track pad for a BBK depending on which pad the BBK uses.
__________________
-Dave
Track cars: 2013 Scion FRS, 1998 Acura Integra Type-R, 1993 Honda Civic Hatchback
DD: 2005 Acura TSX
Tow: 2022 F-450
Toys: 2001 Chevrolet Corvette Z06, 1993 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1994 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4
Parts: 2015 Subaru BRZ Limited, 2005 Acura TSX
Projects: 2013 Subaru BRZ Limited track car build
FS: 2004 GMC Sierra 2500 LT CCSB 8.1/Allison with 99k miles
Dave-ROR is offline   Reply With Quote