| carbonBLUE |
01-10-2016 10:33 AM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tcoat
(Post 2504212)
There are loads of helpful posts here you just have to actually read through it all to find them.
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most relevant reply is below :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by NahumCC
(Post 2504235)
Eh, don't let people say doom and gloom about running a turbo since there are so many ways to configure one. What it will really come down to is the turbo you choose, how your controlling the turbo's wastegate, how much your getting into the throttle and how much spare room you leave yourself with the injectors duty cycle to dump fuel into the cylinders when knock is detected to help cool them down.
You don't have to buy a brand new turbo as there are plenty of tried and true turbo's out there from factory cars sitting in junk yards. Two good solid turbo's to start a basic build from are a Garrett T25 or a Mitsubishi TD04-15T. The reason I recommend these for a beginning setup is for 2 reasons. The first, both are easily rebuilt and are rather easy to take apart. The second is both are also easy to upgrade the compressor wheel and housing to accept a slightly larger compressor wheel making a hybrid unit. The T25 can be made to accept a T28 compressor wheel and the TD04 can be modified to accept a 19T compressor wheel. Clipping of the compressor wheel is required in both cases...the clipping of the turbine wheel is optional but it helps with spool up time by removing mass while giving up top end flow capacity.
The T25 can be found on the following very easily:
1993-1998 Saab 9000 (CS and CSE trims)
1994-1998 Saab 900 (all turbo models)*
1999 Saab 9-3 (In 2000 they switched to the Garrett GT17 which were not the most reliable)*
The TD04-15T can be found on the following very easily
1993-1998 Saab 9000 (Aero with 5 spd manual, these have a slightly larger turbine housing [referred to as a 6cm2 by Mitsubishi] flowing better on the top end)
1999-2003 Saab 9-3 Viggen (Has a 5cm2 turbine housing which gives better spoolup down low but gives up some flow on the top end)*
2000-2003 Saab 9-3 SE (Has to be designated a high output model, has 5cm2 turbine housing)
2000-2010 Saab 9-5 Aero (Has 5cm2 turbine housing)*
All the asterisks mean is to alert you the compressor housing inlet was designed with a V-band attached inlet pipe. The T25 on the 900 and 99 9-3 had a set screw that held it on. Another reason I list these is they are easier to plumb since these were before the BPV were built into the compressor housing.
After this period the 2.0L saab motors moved to the TD04-14T and the specialty trim levels (Aero, TurboX) got a twin scroll TD04-15T. Both of these have the BPV electronically controlled and built into the compressor housing.
If I were in your shoes and for the time being to get your feet wet and a feel for what gets involved I would do a battery relocation to the truck and then use that newly gained space to mount the TD04HL-15T have it tuned for no more than 7 to 8 PSI but tailored for a shoot up to 10 PSI initially. Match that with a good bar and plate intercooler it should get you a good 230 Lb-FT of torque at the crank easily.
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+1 for factory turbo from another car. Small, fast spool time, low end boost, minimal lag, least amount of stress on stock internals. as long as the adaptation is executed correctly, it should last quite a while without issue and finding a used replacement turbo(that isn't abused) when it goes out should be cheaper than going with an aftermarket brand. |
