Welcome back!
The very fact you replied moved you up several notches in the credibility ratings. Please understand that we see a pile of one off posts that are only intended to stir up shit so when you ask a question then disappear for a long period you get thrown into that category. Unfair maybe, but it is the reality of things.
If you hang around I think you will find that we really are not that bad and can actually be very helpful.

I guess after three years I should check mine for damage? When exactly will mine "blow up"?


Don't believe everything you read. It's the TUNER that makes the difference.

The safest turbo will be one where the power delivery is at the higher RPM range as it will put less stress on the drive train. I think they call it a centrifugal supercharger. LOL

What he said ^

Don't take it personally, we're all just a bit jaded from past experiences on these forums haha.

But good choice, FI isn't something you want to get into unless you're mentally, emotionally, and financially ready to handle all problems that may arise lol.

Or a mechanical or system failure with the turbo itself especially if not installed properly or serous corner cutting goes on. But that can happen with anything in the engine even NA and isn't really the turbo's fault.


I think a lot of the "turbo will blow your engine" statements came about the same way as all the "all dealers will screw you" or "dealer techs all are morons" statements do. Since all that ever gets told are the horror stories of a small minority while the bulk of the people that never have an issue remain silent. This creates a false perception of what the reality is.


Now all that said, installing a turbo can reduce the reliability of the car but so can putting on different springs, changing the headlights to aftermarket, doing a tune on the stock engine and anything else that changes the vehicle from it's original design specs. There is nothing saying any mods will lower the reliability but they all could lower it.

Tcoat. You put things somewhat in perspective
However, it sounds as if you believe that any mod, other than original design specs, will reduce reliability. Please tell me otherwise.

Not at all. My car is modded and so far has been as reliable as hell. Two of my Lancers were heavily modded and never had an issue with either in 250K miles each.
As I tried to stress changing anything from designed specs can increase the risk of problems (you can have problems stock as well so there is always risk) but that does not mean you will have problems just that the risk is greater. People here have blown BCUs with a simple LED light in the license plate while others have run 16 pounds of boost on an otherwise stock engine and never had a hiccup.

To take it out of the car realm which leaves things open for people to say "but I did XXX and it was fine" but illustrate what I am saying:


Say you have jumping platform that is designed to be 1 foot high.
You can jump off that all day long and the risk of breaking your leg is pretty minimal but, you still could break your leg.
Move that platform up to two feet and the risk of breaking your leg increases but it does not mean you are going to break it, just the risk of doing so is greater.
Move it up to five feet and you are starting to push your luck but you could still possibly jump all day without an issue. Or, because the original design was what was deemed the best for the purpose you may break your leg on the first jump.That was the chance you took by changing from the original design.

As long as people fully understand the level of risk and are willing to accept it then all is good.

This ^^^

Want reliable low end tq? V8 swap. I'm doing it to my DD because I drive like an asshat. Also I track my car and burn through lots of rubber at mineral wella spending more of my time sideways then going straight. I know this post doesn't help this thread but it seems like none of the other posts help either. In b4 lock

Agreed!
100%
(My knees hurt listening to your logic)

Anyone who doesn't understand this risk or does not have the funding to replace his entire car once going to FI is foolish.

LOL It makes your knees hurt? How bizarre.

There are loads of helpful posts here you just have to actually read through it all to find them.

Eh, don't let people say doom and gloom about running a turbo since there are so many ways to configure one. What it will really come down to is the turbo you choose, how your controlling the turbo's wastegate, how much your getting into the throttle and how much spare room you leave yourself with the injectors duty cycle to dump fuel into the cylinders when knock is detected to help cool them down.


You don't have to buy a brand new turbo as there are plenty of tried and true turbo's out there from factory cars sitting in junk yards. Two good solid turbo's to start a basic build from are a Garrett T25 or a Mitsubishi TD04-15T. The reason I recommend these for a beginning setup is for 2 reasons. The first, both are easily rebuilt and are rather easy to take apart. The second is both are also easy to upgrade the compressor wheel and housing to accept a slightly larger compressor wheel making a hybrid unit. The T25 can be made to accept a T28 compressor wheel and the TD04 can be modified to accept a 19T compressor wheel. Clipping of the compressor wheel is required in both cases...the clipping of the turbine wheel is optional but it helps with spool up time by removing mass while giving up top end flow capacity.


The T25 can be found on the following very easily:
1993-1998 Saab 9000 (CS and CSE trims)
1994-1998 Saab 900 (all turbo models)*
1999 Saab 9-3 (In 2000 they switched to the Garrett GT17 which were not the most reliable)*


The TD04-15T can be found on the following very easily
1993-1998 Saab 9000 (Aero with 5 spd manual, these have a slightly larger turbine housing [referred to as a 6cm2 by Mitsubishi] flowing better on the top end)
1999-2003 Saab 9-3 Viggen (Has a 5cm2 turbine housing which gives better spoolup down low but gives up some flow on the top end)*
2000-2003 Saab 9-3 SE (Has to be designated a high output model, has 5cm2 turbine housing)
2000-2010 Saab 9-5 Aero (Has 5cm2 turbine housing)*


All the asterisks mean is to alert you the compressor housing inlet was designed with a V-band attached inlet pipe. The T25 on the 900 and 99 9-3 had a set screw that held it on. Another reason I list these is they are easier to plumb since these were before the BPV were built into the compressor housing.


After this period the 2.0L saab motors moved to the TD04-14T and the specialty trim levels (Aero, TurboX) got a twin scroll TD04-15T. Both of these have the BPV electronically controlled and built into the compressor housing.


If I were in your shoes and for the time being to get your feet wet and a feel for what gets involved I would do a battery relocation to the truck and then use that newly gained space to mount the TD04HL-15T have it tuned for no more than 7 to 8 PSI but tailored for a shoot up to 10 PSI initially. Match that with a good bar and plate intercooler it should get you a good 230 Lb-FT of torque at the crank easily.

Although it isn't a turbo, the JRSC is a reliable supercharger. Like someone mentioned before, centrifugal superchargers don't stress the trans/engine as much in the low rpms