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-   -   Harness Bars/Rear Cage options (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=99319)

ka-t_240 12-28-2015 12:28 AM

Harness Bars/Rear Cage options
 
Hi Everyone,

What are you all using for either a harness bar, or a "back half" cage in your car? I know autopower isn't a valid option.

I am doing more and more HPDE events, and would like to start using a HANS device, so I need to properly install harnesses.

IPGJames 12-28-2015 01:16 PM

I weighed all my options and ended up just having a custom 4 point roll bar welded in locally. The other options that I see on the market are not thrilling. But what everyone will tell you is it is ultimately down to your threshold for risk vs reward. I see many people using standard harness bars and those Schroth ASM harnesses and they are comfortable with that. Other like the bolt in style roll bars that are on the market. I just made the decision based on my personal preference, how I ultimately plan on using my car and tolerance for risk.

This is what is in my car -- http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=96984

Sleepless 12-28-2015 02:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ka-t_240 (Post 2492084)
Hi Everyone,

What are you all using for either a harness bar, or a "back half" cage in your car? I know autopower isn't a valid option.

I am doing more and more HPDE events, and would like to start using a HANS device, so I need to properly install harnesses.

What is wrong with the AutoPower bar?

ka-t_240 12-28-2015 05:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sleepless (Post 2492479)
What is wrong with the AutoPower bar?



I've seen a number of people who are not happy with the 4 point. The main issue is related to the mounting that comes with for the front.

Sleepless 12-28-2015 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ka-t_240 (Post 2492620)
I've seen a number of people who are not happy with the 4 point. The main issue is related to the mounting that comes with for the front.

There really aren't a lot of choices on the front mounting. You need to weld in a support plate. It should be a fine roll bar. I have a custom one from Cantrell Motorsports and we ended up doing the same thing. I haven't seen anyone do it differently with a bolt in; at least not a way that I'd feel confident it will not push through the floor in a roll over.

redlined600 12-28-2015 11:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IPGJames (Post 2492400)
I weighed all my options and ended up just having a custom 4 point roll bar welded in locally. The other options that I see on the market are not thrilling.

X2

Quote:

Originally Posted by ka-t_240 (Post 2492620)
I've seen a number of people who are not happy with the 4 point. The main issue is related to the mounting that comes with for the front.

That and from what I can tell the the rear legs land on the wheel arch rather than the "frame rail" or next to the shock mount.

ka-t_240 12-28-2015 11:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IPGJames (Post 2492400)
I weighed all my options and ended up just having a custom 4 point roll bar welded in locally. The other options that I see on the market are not thrilling. But what everyone will tell you is it is ultimately down to your threshold for risk vs reward. I see many people using standard harness bars and those Schroth ASM harnesses and they are comfortable with that. Other like the bolt in style roll bars that are on the market. I just made the decision based on my personal preference, how I ultimately plan on using my car and tolerance for risk.

This is what is in my car -- http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=96984


What did you end up paying for this? Do you know why they decided to terminate at the strut bar vs down to the "body"?

Sleepless 12-29-2015 12:32 AM

Here is my Cantrell bar: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...0&postcount=16

ka-t_240 12-29-2015 01:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sleepless (Post 2492975)

If you took the bar out, would the rear seat function properly again? The idea of a bolt in option would be the ability to return the car to stock if I see it.

Sleepless 12-29-2015 02:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ka-t_240 (Post 2492994)
If you took the bar out, would the rear seat function properly again? The idea of a bolt in option would be the ability to return the car to stock if I see it.

Yes. In fact, I only remove the rear cross bar to get the rear seat to close (flip up fully). Fifth pic in that post shows my 'street' configuration. For track days I remove the seat back and put in the rear cross bar.

IPGJames 12-29-2015 08:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ka-t_240 (Post 2492952)
What did you end up paying for this? Do you know why they decided to terminate at the strut bar vs down to the "body"?

you can expect to pay about $1k for something similar from a good fab shop...Mazworx actually made a jig on this one when they bent mine up so you could possibly buy a u-weld type kit from them that would replicate what i have.

when looking for the best place to mount the rear bars there are a couple of options to pick up strong, frame locations on the chassis...we have done the strut tower bar integration on other cars that we have worked on together and it turns out well....I was hesitant at first to do it in this chassis because I was concerned about having usable space and being able to get to the top of the struts, fitting the interior back in, etc but it came out great...I would do it over again just like that in a heartbeat...all the interior except the rear seat backs fit back in nicely with some trimming.

ka-t_240 12-29-2015 10:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IPGJames (Post 2493111)
you can expect to pay about $1k for something similar from a good fab shop...Mazworx actually made a jig on this one when they bent mine up so you could possibly buy a u-weld type kit from them that would replicate what i have.

when looking for the best place to mount the rear bars there are a couple of options to pick up strong, frame locations on the chassis...we have done the strut tower bar integration on other cars that we have worked on together and it turns out well....I was hesitant at first to do it in this chassis because I was concerned about having usable space and being able to get to the top of the struts, fitting the interior back in, etc but it came out great...I would do it over again just like that in a heartbeat...all the interior except the rear seat backs fit back in nicely with some trimming.



Guess I live in the wrong part of the country. I have talked to people with similarly designed items to yours, they have all paid 2-3k.

IPGJames 12-29-2015 11:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ka-t_240 (Post 2493167)
Guess I live in the wrong part of the country. I have talked to people with similarly designed items to yours, they have all paid 2-3k.


Geez......that is quite high for a 4 point....

This is another car of mine...this full cage cost $2600 from BSI Racing in Daytona (these people I use are not the "cheapest" by any means..they are all well known, national level companies)

http://ipgparts.com/blog/wp-content/...7/prepaint.jpg

http://ipgparts.com/blog/wp-content/.../postpaint.jpg

http://ipgparts.com/blog/wp-content/...39670161_n.jpg

ka-t_240 12-29-2015 12:14 PM

$2600 painted and floor work? Sounds like one could ship a car there and back for cage work and come out ahead in some cases.


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