How to reduce your chances of Bricking your ECU
 

How to reduce your chances of Bricking your ECU




This applies to ALL flashing systems Ecutek,Tactrix, OFT, Kess V2 ect



You will in most cases get away with with many of the situations listed here, but its best not to push your luck.
quite often the flash system can recover, or you can re-write


If you do get a failed flash, partial flash or error message, read it carefully and Re-Flash again BEFORE you turn ignition OFF, this way the ECU is still in Program mode. If you turn off ignition with a corrupt or partial rom in ECU you may not be able to recover.

Many Ecutek flash problems are due to licensing issues

Read here if using RomRaider to edit roms http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=79152


Never attempt to flash your car if the car battery is low/flat or you think the battery is suspect , always make sure car battery is good before flashing.

Never connect a battery charger to car while flashing or reading. Many modern battery chargers use pulse charging or are switchmode supplies which will introduce voltage fluctuations and electrical noise into the cars electrical system, both not good while attempting a flash.

If you battery is low charge it before flashing then check battery, and always remove charger when actually flashing or reading ecu. Again if battery is weak or suspect dont flash, replace the battery first.



The voltage required to flash ecu comes from car battery not the flashing device.

Many flash systems will measure the battery volts prior to starting a read or write and refuse to even start the process if the volts are low. However the problems can arise if your right on the limit and then load the battery during flash process.


Always turn OFF everything electrical in your car BEFORE reading or writing a tune file.


Never switch anything electrical in the car during a read/write. Yes this means anything, fans, radio, lights. Don’t press brake pedal, shift gears in an auto, don’t press clutch, don’t open or close doors or boot, nothing. If you introduce any voltage spikes into the electrical system it may effect flash process.


Never try to start the car or have engine running during flash or read process.


Ignition needs to be full ON , not just accessory position (never start car or have engine running during read/write of ecu)


Always Check connection to OBD port is good by doing some logging or a rom READ and wiggle cables to make sure no loss of communications.
Some cars especially 2013 and earlier have suspect obd sockets that can cause intermittent connection.


Never unplug/interrupt the Flashing device/cable when its reading or writing (flashing) a tune to your car.


Never turn off the ignition while Flashing Device is reading/writing a tune file to your car


Always leave the key fob in push to start models near the start button, don’t take key fobs out of car during flash or read process.


Never mess with or turn off/on plug chargers into cigarette socket or anything electrical in your car during read/write flash process



Never have your laptop connected to OFT when flashing or reading a tune from car. The OFT does not require a laptop when flashing.

Keep your mobile phone away from flashing device and your key fob when its reading or writing tune files to car.


Dont put laptop on top of key fobs as it blocks signal to car.

OFT automatically corrects checksums of roms.

ECUFLASH (used with TACTRIX) does NOT automatically correct checksums, always let ECUFLASH correct checksum of rom if it asks to do so. If you flash a rom with an incorrect checksum it will fail. If you accidentally flash after saying NO to checksum correction. Re-flash WITHOUT turning Ignition off


If you have tried Reflashing without turning ignition off and still no communication with ECU, checked all connections and battery volts then try this.


It if you believe you have bricked the ecu and tried re-writing without turning car ignition off and its still failed

Then try this procedure first

1. Switch off ignition
2. Remove negitive battery terminal
3. Depress brake pedal to bleed off any residual power
4. Re-connect battery
5. Immediately try to reflash car with a known good rom, stock rom is best. Flash rom at first turn on of ignition.


If still no go check battery volts you need about 12.5v.

Then remove battery terminal for about 30 minutes and retry flashing.


hopefully your back in business





If your unlucky enough to Brick your ECU here how to replace it
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2579291


If you using Ecutek you can try Ecutek support in UK if still unsuccessful I believe Ecutek offer an ECU recovery service, but likely only for Ecutek customers.













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helpful as always @steve99 *thumbs up

Steve,
The Aussie GTS has LED DRL that come on automatically when the ignition is in the 'On' position.

These don't cause an issue with regard to current spikes and power flow?

The HP fuel pump spins up as well. That is not an issue?

I have the 2013 86 GTS which you say can have dodgy OBD connector pins that can have a intermittent connection problem.

Does the OFT simply not work or can it identify a non connection or poor connection with a falure message before writing has started?

Can this connection issue happen mid update, say when a the OFT. Cable is moved?

Great post from yourself as usual but you've put the fear of God into me.

I'm going to write a pre-flight, or pre-flash, checklist for my car and tick all the things you've mentioned off before flashing or even pluging my OFT in!!!

I have a stupid question..car is sitting all winter long..If the battery dies will my tune be erased and need to be reflashed? My car is turbo and wouldnt wanna start it up without the tune.

If I'm honest, the only thing I have found to cause issues mid flash is plugging something into the power sockets/cigarette lighter.

I can confirm, on the push button models, that so long as the key is present to allow you to cycle the modes you can do what you want with the key once the ignition is on. I have walked away with it in my pocket while the laptop is in the car without a problem. The ECU does not require it's presence when on, just as it can run without the key in the car.

Opening and closing doors also doesn't seem to be an issue, but is definitely worth avoiding.

No

True about DRL and fuel pump, although I think my DRL on brz only come on when handbrake is taken off.

The main thing your trying to avoid is a big change in voltage to the ecu. ie a big change in load on battery causing a voltage transient.

Im probably being over cautious as a good battery would need quite a large load to cause a voltage transient large enough to cause a problem.

If the connection is totally bad no flash system will even start to write as they need to send commands to ecu to set up the read or write process, and in the case of OFT its using vehicle power as well to power itself.

What you dont want is an intermittent connection as the data is written in blocks with acknowledgements sent, and failed data connection will result in a failed read/write. Most of these can be recovered by erasing and rewriting, however that can create a drama with flash systems like ecutek that stores the licience info in ecu , as if it wants to re-check licience then its going to fail and refuse to write. Then you need to contact tuner/ecutek for licience renewal as a minimum.

most systems if the flash fails your better trying to re-write the ecu, without turning the ignition off as the ecu will still be in program mode.

The best way to check for intermittent connection is logging and wiggle the cables/connectors to see if it stops logging, this way it does not cause any big dramas if you actually find an intermittent connection

I added some more words at the bottom.

you are correct in that in most cases you will get away with many of the things i have listed. It when the holes in the cheese line up as they say and you get say a battery that a bit ordinary/low coupled with opening doors (remember the window jumpup/down which is a reasonable transient load) and you may trigger suffient voltage transient to cause an issue.

Yep the key fob dont need to be in the car once ignition is on, but many flashing systems require ignition to be cycled as part of overall process. If they keys are not their this will be a problem and likely induce mild panic as they think they have bricked ecu, often resulting in bad decisions like battery removal and cable removal attempted reflashing ect trying to fix a problem , but actually creates one. Hence the leave the keys near the start button recomendation.

And dont put your running laptop on top of keys if you leave them on seat generally car wont start, no signal.

most flash system will refuse to write if volts start to low, but if your right on the edge and then open door it might fail mid flash.

however just this week 2 guys in Oz have bricked ECU using Ecutek due intermittent obd connector on one was cause, the second one cause is unknown but we suspect low battery volts as it was turbo build and likely took a few days. Both had a couple of attempts to resurect the problem and burned 3 more liciences (they will get them back i suspect) but both are sending ECU to Ecutek for bench reflash or resurection.

I had a bad OBD port from connecting/removing the OFT too many times. I resolved this with an OBD extension and now have a working connection.

But just to be sure, when I flash I don't even sit in my car. I roll down my window and do everything from outside the car, ensuring that nothing gets touched, and the OFT never moves during the flash.

Maybe it's overkill, but I'd rather have that than a bricked ECU.

Good stuff! I've never heard this warning before; has anyone reported or documented a case of corrupting a calibration via. cell phone?

One additional tip I can add from experience - don't tune with a battery charger connected to the car and NEVER EVER EVER connect/disconnect a battery charger while you are live (connected) with a ECU.

This has corrupted cals and firmware on me (we all learn the hard way, right?). It can/will change ground planes, sensor outputs, injector offsets, all kinds of ECU values, etc...

Again i am probably being over cautious.

mobile phone transmitt signals even if you not on a call. I doubt many of the flashing devices or cables are fully RF shielded so its theoreticly possible that the transmissions from a phone in very close proximity to cable or flashing tool could cause a problem, this would be unlikely though.

Yes modern battery chargers are not like the old transformer types that charged at a constant voltage. Modern switchmode or pulse charge battery chargers introduce transient voltages into system.

Subaru\toyota have a special type of battery stabiliser i think they call it that they attach during flashing.

I have the dodgy OBD port problem. Any recommendations to fix it? I've found that if I put a little bit of tension on the ecutek cable it stays connected, but I have dropped connection mid-flash before.

Best option is to replace obd socket in car either yourself or auto electricians should be able to do it.

I believe manufacturer part is the complete harness

or you can try a short obd extension cable look at some and pick the one with the thickest pins.

Hey guys I replaced my ECM with the same version (MY letters) as the one I had originally and then I transferred my tune file from the old MY ECM directly on the OFT and flashed it on the new MY ECM... After the flash was completed the car wouldn't start, so I put the original file back successfully but still the car wouldn't start..

I'm wondering now if I bricked my ecm this way or maybe it wasn't working in the first place.

If my tune file was on my MY ecm and I wanna transfer it to another ecm with the same letters MY should I have had edited still the original file instead of what I've done?