Depends on your budget and how crazy you want to get. If budget isn't a problem and registering modified cars isn't a problem in KSA then I'd ship your car over to EKanoo in Bahrain for a 2JZ swap. Only downside is that it'll cost you about the same as you paid for your car. ;)

Lowest budget option would be the final drive gear swap. 4.88 or so in an auto would perk the car up nicely.

Your next best option would be the Edelbrock supercharger kit, plus an oil cooler, plus maybe a final drive upgrade. That'd give you 'decent' power from the stock engine. 300ish I believe. Plus a little thermal protection.

One step up from the bolt on Edelbrock SC would be the Edelbrock SC unit with a smaller pulley, plus a built engine to handle the extra boost, plus fueling mods to feed the beast, plus the oil cooler. This option would probably get you over 300ish and cost maybe half of what your car originally did. :)

For us in Dubai the authorities are a bit strict about aftermarket boost so us guys who are afraid of not passing inspection (and don't have wasta) will usually stick to stuff like the AVO turbo, which looks pretty OEM. The crazy guys here with no wasta problems usually go turbo - full blown etc. - with built motors and shoot for the 400hp mark. No idea how they get their cars passed and they're usually not track guys but hey. Not many supercharged cars here, don't know why, just the way it is.

You could always talk to Sam at Sam Performance here in Dubai. He's done a bunch of boosted 86s, many different kits, many different power levels, some for Saudi clients.

For what it's worth I only find oil temps to be an issue when I'm tracking the car. If you're pushing your car hard even in stock form I'd recommend an oil cooler. Otherwise they seem to do pretty well in the heat.

Hala Bro,

So you have your car boosted with no overheating issues? not even in the peak of summer?
I envy you guys living at the sea level :D you get to squeeze few more horses compared to us who live relatively high above the sea level.

Back to our subject, My problem with Edelbrock I'm not sure if they have a reputable dealer/installer...
Cosworth on the other hand have a very knowledgeable racer shop as their dealer in the GCC, but the problem is the freaking insane asking price of almost 50K SAR!
Yet they don't mention anything about installing extra coolers for the Transmission Oil/Engine Oil... Just a mere "Racing Thermostat"


What about it? :)


Thanks for the elaboration, can you please explain the 370Z case for me?
How come Nissan 370Z that weighs 1450-1500KG and have a NA 3.7l producing around 337 BHP, is capable of 0-60 times around the 5s mark!
But when we ask for that from a Supercharged 2.0L engine, pushing a car that is almost 250Kg lighter, yet many replies that I got make it sounds impossible to run 0-60 around 5s :iono:
I'm looking for a 280Whp roughly 330Bhp and I'll have the weight advantage...! Something doesn't add up here (For me at least).


Spot on advice many thanks :)
1- So SC (since it's cooler)...
2- A vented hood... (I'm not sure I prefer this as it is very dusty where I live)
3- Long headers (To enhance low-mid range torque)...

points 1 and three scream go Cosworth 2.3

4-FD is the magic trick that will aid the acceleration big time.

Thanks again I like your feedback :)


Very informative indeed and specially useful feedback coming from a fellow 86er surviving the Hell of the summer in the Arabian Peninsula.

I'll seriously consider starting with the 4.88 FD, but any idea how much will it affect the top speed?

My second option is to go with upgraded cooling for both Transmission oil and for Engine oil too... I heard that the stock Radiator is good but from US/Japan/EU users... Do you think a replacing the Radiator is necessary?

As for the Forced Induction options, I'll most likely go with SC, as TC adds more heat complications + controlling the boost is very tricky, lets not forget the fact that the OEM is a 12.5:1 compression ratio, which makes it mandatory to approach the FI territories with extreme care... Plus I use it as a DD so I need the Low-Mid torque more I can't live with a turbo lag SC will insure having boost as early as possible in the RPM range.

Many Thanks Bro,



And Again'I'd like to thank you all, I'm greedy for more opinions/experiences/knowledge from you guys, please keep them coming :thumbup::thanks:

I recomend to have oil cooler even if you are not boosted.

I have vented hood, side vents, and oil cooler.

Oil temp and oil pressure gauge can keep you sure that everything is OK


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Compare the area under the curve. A 330bhp VQ37VHR is over 300hp for a LARGE power of that powerband; it's not just a momentary 330hp.

@UNREAL The VQ37VHR is also going to produce 250+ ft-lbs TQ very early, and pretty much hold that across the entire band.

As CSG posted above, the issue with 400+ hp on an FA20 is not heat, but rather cramming that much compressed air into a cylinder is difficult requiring an extremely strong engine, you will pay to have it rebuilt to the strongest parts and materials and still not have a guarantee that it will survive and fuel to prevent detonation.

There is a twofold problem here, the first is expectations, do you want less than 5s 0-60 or 370Z like acceleration? Some tests put the 370Z acceleration at greater than 5s to 60/62 mph, lots of things make a difference (like tires, road condition, and driver skill) but ultimately it's rare that ANYBODY will perform a test like this and be satisfied and put the car away and do nothing else with it. It's like judging a car entirely based on it's color.

We assumed "less than 5s" was in the realm of Mustang GT, 4.5s with 435 horsepower and the '10 M3 with a V8 has at least one publication claiming 4.1s in a sedan with 414hp. Many people come here with wild expectations so everyone assumes the worst. As already mentioned you are also fighting the automatic transmission gearing, a final drive swap will be helpful in getting from >7s to near 5s.

The second problem is your reliance on an installer, you are very limited to either off the shelf parts or a specialist who will likely demand a lot of money with no guarantee of end performance, for a GT86 making >300 horsepower at the wheels you will have to trust someone local, do electronic tuning through email halfway across the world or fly a specialist out, no way around it.

Reading your recent posts it seems like your target is actually more reasonable than many assumed, I believe you can get similar to 370Z performance out of a Jackson Racing kit, Vortech, or Edelbrock kit with a standard tune that comes with the kit and final drive swap. The raw numbers may disappoint you (about 240 horsepower at the wheels and slightly slower than 5s 0-62) but look up some stock 370Z dyno numbers, many are roughly at 260 wheel horsepower with about 200kg more weight. These kits have all been proven in relatively high heat conditions (California desert) assuming you also run an oil cooler, upgrading the radiator wouldn't hurt either. Since it sounds like you trust the Cosworth installer I don't think that's a bad option either, put aside your reliance on the numbers and appreciate the seat of the pants feel the car gives you, after all, that's why you bought it right?

tl;dr adjust expectations, buy something proven and off the shelf. If I were in your shoes and knew only what you posted I'd get the Cosworth kit, an oil cooler, transmission cooler, final drive swap and some good tires, probably around 235/245 wide and forget entirely about what 0-60 performance your car has. Accept that you'll lose many races in a straight line unless you buy a different car or spend a lot of money and accept a lot of risk.

1) We do have a light car. This is why there is only 200-300 lbs of weight reduction possible (before you make crazy modifications).

2) As others have said, low-end torque is the answer. We have slightly more aggressive gearing than a Z-car... but that's because we don't have as much torque. A manual 370Z has a 3.8:1 first gear and 3.692:1 final drive. An automatic GT86 has a 3.6:1 first gear and 4.1:1 final drive.

Interestingly, the automatic 370Z has a very similar top-gear (0.771:1) when compared to the GT86 (0.767:1). The final drive ratio make the Z's gearing taller overall though.

3) 91 Octane will be difficult to make power, unless you drop the compression ratio.

4) Others have abused the automatic transmission on this car without many problems. It's important to consider the temperature of your transmission fluid (since the oil film is what protects your transmission). A cooler is important. Even with a cooler, you're putting more stress on the parts, so replacing the fluid more often will be required.

Your goals are not impossible. It will just take some supporting modifications to guarantee that the car stays reliable. More power = more heat and more fuel. If you plan ahead, this can be done very reliably.

I have re-geared my automatic to 4.88's. I am NA so far and the gear change made a world of difference. I have rode in the Edelbrock supercharged car and the bottom end torque is awesome. This will be my next power option. Probably won't give me 0 to 60 5 second times but will be plenty to keep me and my tires happy for a long tine.

What about it? :)





644hp @29psi
524tq


@ 35 psi (CLASSIFIED)

Nice indeed :)

But I would keep an eye on the intake manifold at > than 30 psi.

Hello
 

I have the 4.88 FD, and could get 125 mph on 4th gear, 65mph at 6th gear at 2,850 RPMs... Thinking on 5.1 FD :)
That's how much I love the mod!!!

About cooling, well I live in the tropic (hot and humid) and temps are very well controlled for DD, the occasional solo cross events, 1/8 and 1/4 mile... never on 1/2 mile but maybe this is not a car for that :bonk:
2 engine oil coolers of 10 rows each and secuential, 2 oil cooler for tha AT (the OEM that is oil/water and one oil/air, also1 oil cooler for the SC (vortech). Almost forgot! Big radiator mishimoto I think, with OEM fans.

About speed! It's faster, than stoke... Could compete with others 4 cylinder and maybe 6 cylinder but they have to be NA or very bad tune. For the V8, I have to get in the car before them :bonk::)
But could get 0-60 in 5+ seconds, I run with low boost 9 psi at 6.5k rpms

Hope this help

Valuable advice, That I'll take into consideration :thumbsup:


I need to compare their dyno graphs... The torque being high through most of the graph makes sense... Thank you gentlemen for your valuable discussion and support.




Wow another great reply :clap::thumbsup: with all credit due to other participants... this one is the best so far...
Yes I want a more lively car that doesn't get obliterated in straight lines by stupid FF sedans and big family SUV's (Most families here are V8 but the weigh twice as much as my 86 if not more), I do want to hold my grounds with pony cars, at least not get so ashamed coughing in their dust...
Older Camaro RS or even SS, since they are almost 1000 pounds heavier than my car and were not as fast as they looked or specéd (Exclude the ones with LE package), Pre-2009 Mustangs GT's with their lousy 305hp V8's etc...
Hyundai Genesis Coupe's, 370Z... BMW 330i... Mercedes 300/350 E & C classes... you get the point?
The GT 86 looks so sporty (Mine in Flaming Red) it is humiliating how often people pull away from you or some challengers challenge you for a short sprint on an empty highway but you have to chicken out of the competition...

I get what I need to do...
1- Cooling everything with Mishimoto
2- 4.88 Final Drive (I asked several times in my previous replies what is the effect on top speed, but no answer till now:iono:)
3- a 1.5 LSD since I suspect mine doesn't have an LSD (AT 86's before 2014 shipped without LSD)
4- Drop in air-filter upgrade (TRD or K&N) As I heard that the OEM airbox is quite good and very nonrestrictive making all aftermarket air intakes a waste of money...
5- Better wheels and tires, I'll go with barely legal semi-slicks 18x8.5 and 245 on all corners (That advise I got from TireRack sales representative over their website) you think that size is good enough?
6- Forced Induction will be the last step, I'll go supercharger... less psi, better lower band responsiveness. Cosworth way I'll have to sell a kidney... I'm seriously leaning more towards HKS solution (I heard there is a V3 released very recently)

How is that plan?



Great so, I need not to worry much about the AT around 250-300whp, other than better cooling, better oil, and more frequent changes? right?

I use 95 Octane fuel, that is the best we have, how well would that fare against the high compression forced induction scenario?




how did that 4.88 FD affects the top speed of your car? I really want an answer to that? Thank you :)




I see, I see :D... But no thanks I'm not that confident nor I can control such beast... I think it'll behave ferociously like a wounded lion, and it'd die very soon as a wounded lion too...:)




You mean 165mph at the 6th Gear? you all getting me so excited about that 4.88 FD upgrade :drool:
Regarding heat dissipation too many coolers man :(
How do you manage too keep them all sorted? any photos?
Don't those many coolers radiators reduce the main radiator efficiency by reducing the amount of airflow reaching the main radiator + and at the same time heating the air before it reaches to the main radiator too?




Many thanks again, very informative thread that will be useful to many other fellow 86er's hopefully...
Awaiting for answers on the questions I posted above :)

I have never done any top speed runs so can't comment on that.

Does the change FD bother at your daily commute?
I think not :) Attachment 124494


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