New Track Parts & Shop Car Update
 

We've been pushing hard to get our shop car ready for the upcoming season and that means lots of parts development. We are doing our best to offer every possible part of this build as at least a short run production part if not a stocked product.

Here are some of the most recent updates to the build...

We've been hard at work on the chassis, safety, weight reduction, etc.

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Probably the biggest product release is our bolt on dual master cylinder & bias bar braking system. This allows the true mechanical bias to be adjusted by the driver in the cockpit just like with a full Tilton pedal assembly. We use Tilton master cylinders and bias bar components. The final product will be 3D CNC machined from 7075 T6 and anodized.

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Our most recent product already on the shelf are these truly solid rear subframe and differential bushings. These raise the rear subframe approximately 0.19" creating the best possible geometry for lowered cars without cutting or grinding. They also make a huge difference in suspension rigidity, chassis stiffness, axle geometry, differential durability, etc.

These are CNC machined from 6061 T6 and anodized black or gold. We will have a one time offer on these installed in a good subframe shortly, We have had a simplified version without anodizing in our car for awhile but will be doing one final test fit before sale. We'll post the offer in the next week in the sponsor section.

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I'll post some more pictures and info shortly. Feel free to ask away.

Maybe a stupid question but does the dual master cylinder preclude the use of abs?

And power brakes. Don't need either on a race car or dedicated track car. This will let you adjust bias and will increase pedal feel quite a bit. I have yet to dump the cash into it but other cars I've driven with similar setups (one dialed in) are fantastic.

And OP, it's nice to see a cage on here by someone that understands the term nodal point.

I'm hoping to price the whole kit around $500 but it will definitely be under $750. I haven't decided exactly what to include or not include in the kit yet so the price is still being nailed down but regardless will be MUCH more affordable that mounting a full Tilton dual or triple pedal assembly.

This setup allows for in car adjustable bias on the fly as well.

I should also note you can use this with ABS although you would be on your own for routing the hydraulics. There are plenty of teams doing it this way with higher end ABS units. That said the factory ABS unit on the FR-S is not track worthy so we'll be doing it the hard way :burnrubber:

No kidding, there seem to be less and less people that realize how things are supposed to be done... Glad to see a few still notice haha.

Got some better pictures tonight thanks to my wife.

Excuse the surface rust on the cage, we still have to build the steering column and have been waiting an unfortunate amount of time for some components.
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A few wires up there to chop off for the firewall connector...
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I should have the engine harness mostly finished up tomorrow so hopefully I'll have some new pictures. Also our spare rear subframe should be here tomorrow.

this looks like one of the finest build so far. I am looking forward to your progress.
many parts could be commercialized to make the BRZ/FRS more track worthy. I believe the market is just about to be ready for these cars.

- did you start from a crash car ? or clean car ?
- do you know how much track ABS cost ? and which model works ? and how they work ? :)
I love idea of the bias control but I worry about flat spotting expensive tires.

one more question, what's with the trunk liner redo ? are you planning on some fuel cell installation or something ? I am not sure what that could be for ?

Thanks for the positive comments, I think the market is pretty big from the events I've been attending these cars are getting more and more popular.

We started from a brand new car straight from the dealership. That's the only way to ensure the parts we build will fit properly.

The only systems really used in competitive racing are the Teves MK60 and the Bosch M4. They are about 6,000 and 10,000 respectively. That said you could use this with the stock ABS and still achieve better bias, pedal feel, and performance than the stock booster setup.

Can't blame you for worrying about flat spotting tires. I can say you will learn not to but I can't say you won't ruin a set in the process. Removing the ABS is definitely not for everyone.

The trunk redo is from cutting out the frame from the subframe back to save weight as well as to make room for exhaust and aero.

On another note I finished up the engine harness tonight, I'll have more pictures and maybe a separate thread tomorrow but here's a teaser.

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