Car Won't Start.. No Lights.. HELP!!
 

Friday night I put the car on ignition 2, everything powered up, fuel pump primed, cluster came on, everything was on... Didn't touch anything else..

Saturday morning, I went to look at my wideband LC-2 status light, because I was concerned the sensor needed to be re-calibrated or maybe it was bad, so I took the panel off from under the steering column, I started looking for it. I didn't pull on any wires, but I nudged my Innovate turbo timer/AFR gauge module, looking for the LC-2 sensor. I finally gave up, and decided to just power on the car. I got nothing, except some clicking noise from under the dash. It sounded like a relay click.

There were no lights on the dash or gauge cluster, headlights didn't work, dome lights didn't work, didn't hear the fuel pump prime. The battery is constantly connected to a battery tender. I also checked the voltage and it read 12.6 when the key isn't in there. So I know the battery is good. I checked all the fuses in the engine bay and in the interior and they looked good. I'm almost certain no data is being transmitted via the OBDii port since my racepak wasn't reporting any numbers.

The ONLY things that had power were my power windows, power mirrors, wipers, cig lights (Racepak and Ethanol content analyzer is connected to that), and my HVAC unit. It blows air and the lights for the re-circulation and A/C turn on.

I thought maybe the immobiliser was activated, so I grabbed my spare key and that didn't work either.

Has anyone ever ran into an issue like this?

Below are a list of mods to the car pertaining to the issue...

P3cars gauge (connects to OBDii)
Racepak IQ3 (Connects to OBDii)
Innovate auto timer/afr/voltage gauge
zeritronix ethanol content analyzer

Have you checked any of the relays ..... ??

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_gIZ0weS7iU"]How to Test Car Relays - YouTube[/ame]


humfrz

That was next on my list of things to check... would love to hear more ideas though...

Have you tried a boost or charger? Sounds like just a low battery to me. Battery too low to turn over but still enough charge for other stuff to work. The clicking is the starter solenoid. Start with that before looking for problems that may not exist.
Edit:
OH Never mind I missed the 12.6 volts part!
For other with a not start issue please consider the battery first.

We will let that slide,...... this time ...... because of your condition ...... :scared0012:


humfrz

Measure the battery voltage under load , even a crook battery will measure ok with no load.

check ecu fuses

battery reads 14.2 under load.. all ecu fuses good, all relays are good..

It was really odd... after i checked all the fuses, i opened the door and i heard the "ding ding" noise from the car... i turned the key to acc and everything lit up.. turned it to ignition 2 and the fuel pump primed... everything looked like it was on.. so i cranked it over and it started right up!!

after about 15 seconds it died on me and i couldn't get it running again...

It's definitely not the battery.. we hooked up a jump box directly to the positive terminal and the negative clamp to the negative terminal and we still didn't get anything...

the clicking isn't the starter solenoid because it's coming from inside the cabin.. It's a relay in some box. I know for sure because I pulled one of the clips out and i didn't hear it anymore.. plugged it back in and it clicked again...

Check EFI fuses in the engine bay fuse box. I had a friend with a similar issue. It's a 30 AMP green fuse. I don't remember the name exactly right now, but it's there.

Checked that one too =\ checked all the fuses 2-3 times

Just throwing some things around but maybe a bad/exposed ground? I'd start checking every connection to ensure power is getting there and go through an elimination process. Best of luck.

Yeah that's my next step for today.. Hopefully I find something! Thanks!!

Use obd port to scan for storred error codes might give a clue, might not either.

Intermittent faults are a pain.

If it does it again see if you can talk to ecu via obd port will tell you if can buss and ecu is getting power and working.

check any wiring ect you added as result of turbo install, like o2 , like maf extension cables, intector adapter cables .

OK! So it was a battery issue LOL but not because it was dead or anything.. one of the accessory terminals on the positive terminals was loose.. causing an arc... which resulted in some melted plastic... which poured onto the contact surface of the accessory terminals.. a little bit of sandpaper and elbow grease and she's back up and running :)