Bolt on mods or Turbo need help.
 

Bolt on mods: for about $2,000 with basic bolt on mods + openflash tuning and e85 it will give the car about 20-30whp? If my math is wrong please correct me thank you. (Hoping more HP)

Turbo/Supercharger: Now with this it will run around $6,000 - $8,000. I've asked vendors of turbo/superchargers. I'm getting it will give right about 260whp+ running on 7psi with (I'm not sure maybe it will give more if i use e85)

I'll be using the car for Daily driving and a little bit of spirited driving here and there.

Ok, after reading the basic bold on mods I am looking at getting couple of things done on my FRS. I hope I understood it right after reading it couple of times, I didn't maybe you guys can help me understand more.

Ok here, Basically if I get a UEL headers + front pipe + Exhaust + Tune. If I added it right am I looking at about 30 horse power gain?

Green words below are copied from basic bolt on mods.

If you run E85 on completely stock car with appropriate E85 tune you can get about 20 Wheel HP gain.

Catted header with tune (petrol) about 15 wheel hp

Currently I have on the car is very basic. I just bought the car 8/20/15

TRD EXHAUST SYSTEM.
K&N Drop in filter.

What I want to add are as follow: Total cost around $2,000.
UEL HEADERS > Any reliable brand will do.
FRONT PIPE <- If this will give an extra boost yes. If not ill use oem.
Openflash tune > use e85, then tune with UEL Headers.
Perrin Intake tube > On their website it shows it give a couple HP increase is it worth doing it? If I do will it make the car quiet from under the hood?

What do you guys think? Thanks.

I have a catless UEL header, axle-back exhaust, k&n air filter, and an openflash stage 2 UEL tune. I am very content with the output for my daily driving needs. Spent under $1000 for the 4 mods.

Mind you, I do not go to the track or anything like that. I personally didn't want to sacrifice reliability and ~$7000 to make my car faster on the highway. This car is my daily driver so having a functional car 24/7 is an absolute must.

You could always start out with the bolt-ons and see if you're content. If not, you will have no problems selling the stuff and you can then go with FI.

An exhaust system will not do anything for you if you're not going FI, so if you only want some more growl just get an axle back. Same for intake, you are best off getting a K&N filter and using the stock airbox. Front pipe will open up the airways a bit, but will make your exhaust not sound as good (IMO). For a tune, you can get an OpenFlash tablet for $500 or a Tactrix openport 2.0 for $169.

I have TRD Exhaust and K&N Drop in filter. You mean catless UEL Header and openflash is all I need. Do you mind if I ask what brand UEL are you using and do you have a problem with emission?

Good deal. So yes, that would be all you need to add. I have a Tsudo header--and it is uncatted so I'm sure I would fail emissions tests. There is no CEL since openflash tune disables it.

I think you are good to go ...... just drive the car ....... :thumbsup:

(well, you asked .... ;))


humfrz

Get an OFT, tune and run E85. Will probably get you 185-190 whp.

Then look around for used vortech kits on here, you can prob get one for 2500 give or take. Bolt it on yourself, tune for 260-280 whp in a pretty reliable setup.


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Buy a propper grip tires and enjoy the car as it. When you dominate the car with performance tires
you can add power mods bit by bit. Saludos

E85 and a drop-in got me just shy of 193whp on a dynodynamics.
After that I did uel, pulley, intake, Overpipe/frontpipe, catback. I put down 199whp with that on a dyno jet.
I probably spent a little over 2k for all that. Car drives great. If I could go back I would have done header and e85 and called it a day.

ELECTRIC SUPER CHARGER
While it's only 30-40hp, it is 50+ tq. Cost is around ~2200 and can be installed and removed in less than two hours.

+ loooong waiting time to get one.

196whp @7000 rpm? with e85 + uel header?

Sounds about right
with a turbo always budget for an oil cooler as well if not included in kit.

if your unsure if you want to go turbo\supercharger

then just get oft and openflash header no other mods, you can try petrol and e85 tunes.

maybe a drop in filter

both the oft and openflash header sell very well secondhand with minimal loss of money.

just those two mods will get you most of the NA gains and minimal waste or loss if you move on to turbo\sc or go with the oft turbo\sc kits.

you could do same thing with ecutek try teir na tunes then jump to turbo\sc if you have ecutek dealer nearby, otherwise you will have to buy ecuteck cable to flash, note ecutek licience is not transferable and neither are their tunes both locked to your car.

So I'm in the exact spot as you so I'll check to help as much as I can because I've been researching for many days/weeks regarding everything.

So, currently your doing things correctly. The drop in is a great investment and much better than a full intake because the full intake doesn't help much.
The exhaust, your getting for sound and weight. So you have that checked off.

So I'm the same, drop in and a axel back exhaust for sound and weight.

Our next step, should be the OFT. It will bring out the cars potential, add about 10hp and not remove the TQ dip completely, but at least a little. Either way, for the price, this should be the next mod!

Once this is done, this is where it becomes tricky.

Yes, you can get a header. The UEL will make the car sound more like a boxer (which i don't like) and gain more low end and mid range tq. A EL header will sound like a normal car (which i like) and give you more in the higher rpm (less gain in lower rpm compared to UEL)

Either choice, the catless UEL/EL are the next best thing. However....if your worried about emissions, a catted header is better for that. BUT...one huge but. A catted header doesn't work well with the OFT maps, and you'll have to get a custom tune by them for an extra $200.00!
*You can run the normal stage 1 map with the header, but the gains are almost zero and sometimes it may run worse)

Now it's your choice.

I was thinking of getting a catted one until a member helped me calculate costs. A catted header costs usually $300more and plus the custom tune your looking at $500 more! In some ways, it's better to just keep your stock header and replace the headers whenever you need to pass emissions haha.
BUT, another but.
The $500.00 extra may be worth it if you don't want a loud car!
I'm still lost here because i don't want my car to be super loud which header tend to do.

Regarding other parts. An overpipe is pointless. Unless your bored and have money and aiming to achieve weight loss.
The Front pipe has a very small gain, and the other issue is it increase the noise of the exhaust by quiet a lot if you go catless.
If you go catted it's not that bad, but it gets expensive and sometimes it's not worth the money for those 2-4hp.

So at the end of the day, the best route (since this is a daily) is go tune next! You may be happy with it and not want more.

After, you can choose, fp or header. Header is where the gains are. FP, is if you plan to just stop and not get headers because of noise/emissions etc....the fp will give you another few hp.

But if you go header, just forget the fp...it will make the car too loud (fp and catless header) and after the header, a fp won't give you any noticeable gains.

Thanks for this post, I'm in the similar situation but don't want to go all out with FI if I'll be satisfied with bolt-ons. I'm on E85 with a catback and it's just about as loud as I want it in the low rpm range (loud in WOT but I can sneak around and not be obnoxious) and looking into catless headers. Is the jump from stock header/E85 to headers/E85 worth it? I'm sure it's not the same jump as 91 to E85 and I'm worried it'll be too loud if I go for the gains. Any advice is appreciated :)