School me on camber adjustments...
 

... okay lots of stuff out there but trying to understand the best options to adjust the camber on the front. Camber bolts only gets you so much (seems to be -0.7) but looking at what are the best options (not looking at something cost effective, needs to be reliable for track use). We also have no plans on putting in a suspension, just the stock suspension which is working well for us on the track.

Any recos on what to look at? I hardly ever mod cars, most being a rear sway bar on my old A4. :)

Camber plates up front and lower control arms down rear.

Raceseng top hats are high recommended on the forum, as are SPL LCAs. Both on the higher end of the cost spectrum in the category.

I got about -1.5* up front from Whiteline bolts (in the upper holes), with some slotting of the stock struts I'm at 2*. I could have gone further, but I have VERY little clearance between the tires and the spring perch (17x8 +45, 225/45/17's).

If you're going to go with bolts/slotting, talk to Scott @ Can-Align before buying bolts, he has other bolts available that are apparently less likely to drift settings.

You can get camber plates that will work with stock springs and shocks, but they're definitely not the cheapest way to get some camber.

For the rear, you can go LCA or UCA. Upper arms are significantly more expensive, but don't change toe with camber changes like a LCA will. In addition to SPL, have a look at Racer X, they have LCA's with bushings so you can stay class legal if that matters (STX for autocross doesn't allow heim joints IIRC).

Do you know how much camber you're after? If the car sees more track use than commuting, then I would aim for 3*F and 2.3-2.5*R

Hmm I'm using whiteline also but not getting that much. Have to ask the guy about this but he's never seen anything that much more than a degree at best. I'll have to talk to Scott.

We did go with a set of Cusco LCA for the rear.

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You said cost effective is not a main goal- then go for the @Raceseng plates up front. You get camber and caster adjustment and is easy to adjust (your alignment guy will love you)

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Get out the die grinder. Slot your struts. Cheapest way to get more camber.

I run -3.2 up front and -2.6 in the back and with my current springs I could likely use a bit more front and back.

Do you have the whiteline bolts in the upper holes on the knuckle? Is the tab and lobe in the right orientation?

Have you actually bought the Cuscos yet? If not, I'd aim for another brand, sometimes they can be a big pain to adjust on the car. It's hit or miss, so you could end up being ok.

Thanks for the input guys.

wparsons: you have an aftermarket suspension? I've read that if you're running a stock suspension then the amount of adjustment is much less. We'll definitely look at the Raceseng next year (and yes we have the Cusco LCAs installed).

@tanner another brand I forgot to mention at the time is ground control camber plates - they're counter sunk so you get some additional travel vs. Raceseng and they also have caster (like Raceseng).

Nice thing about Raceseng is that it's so modular, you can get one off pieces fabricated easily and quickly - I've received amazing support from Jarrett and Ryan @Raceseng

Just different springs, stock struts/shocks (for now, they're getting tired at ~108k km's).

There's basically no camber curve up front, so lowering doesn't change the camber much at all. In the rear is a different story.

Top hats and rear control arms will help you get more camber, but I have to ask, what do you need more camber for?

For all the above users, $100 it is to improve grip on the track

For some it's for looks only

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Grip, grip and more grip.

They'll probably want a bit more since it's on stock springs and will have more roll.

What kind of level are you guys got hot lapping your cars at that camber is your weak link? Lol