ABS Removal
 

OK, so I asked a question here regarding the use of the stock ABS with a Tilton bias pedal box.


Let's assume this is not possible.. what problems will I encounter, electronically if I remove the ABS. Plumbing is not an issue whatsoever, but I am concerned about the electronic implications.


Has anyone done this??

No replies to any of my posts?? What have I done wrong??


Anyway, I've done some experimenting today. I'm lucky to have two cars so I can experiment with parts off one car plugged into the other.


I first disconnected the ABS module completely. This causes loss of power steering, ABS, all traction and driver aids and max revs of 4K rpm. This could be due to the DI not functioning as mentioned before??


So, I stripped down one module and plugged that into the car. All performs fine except the ABS and driver aids obviously. You still get traction and ABS lights on the dash.


Then reassembled the control module and plugged that into the car, but with no brake pipes connected to it. I thought maybe having the Motor connected would extinguish the lights on the dash? It did.. until I drove the car 20 feet.


So, it looks like the best way to remove the ABS and retain DI and power steering is to take the computer off the ali block and motor of the ABS control module and just run with that.


As already mentioned, it is VERY easy to lock the wheels with this set up, but that doesn't matter to me as the whole point of this is to get in a biased pedal box.


Any comments??

Considering your build thread, you're going into territory only race companies have gone down. Don't be surprised by the lack of response, people just don't have answers just yet, this comes with the new platform. Not many blokes in the shed do this...but i give you props, keep on coming with these questions.

Serious question, what's wrong with pulling the ABS fuse? I was under the impression that accomplished the goal of disabling the ABS (and consequently all traction control aids) without affecting other systems.

Pulling the ABS fuse is fine if you want to lock your wheels up and have no control over front rear bias.


What I am trying to achieve is a method of using a front rear bias pedal box in the car without losing the power steering and being able to rev the engine beyond 4K.

So the primary goal is the using this pedal box to adjust the bias and integrate to the existing brake system to not disrupt the computers.

I've heard that removing wheel speed sensors is often used to disable the ABS without any intensive countermeasures.

Apologies if my simple approaches are not what you want.

No need to apologise, you are at least responding!!

My goal is to end up with a system that works best. We have Puma running without ABS and winning races. We also have Element Tuning who have a post here stating this is the worst ABS on the planet, yet in their latest BC cool over video, they have gone to extra effort to make the ABS work??

ABS will save you many sets of tires from flat spotting..
for info the race FRS lucas oil, forgot the name of the driver, it is currently for sale actually, has installed an aftermarket race ABS...
All Porsche cup cars and ferrari corsa cars have MOTORSPORT ABS, so the trick is more about what aftermarket ABS should we buy ;) ?

Bosch Motorsport ABS is $10K...

I see no reason why I should suffer flat spots with a correctly set up and balanced/biased system. Simply removing the ABS from the stock system will induce many flat spots as the wheels lock with minimal pressure from your right foot.

I agree that the OEM ABS system is very trigger happy and locking happens a lot, and the threshold between locking and not locking is hard to feel considering the pedal assist is high.

I would be curious to hear more feedback from @puma, who did the ABS removal and added bias control.

It has nothing to do with DI not functioning... either fuel system can provide enough fuel for stock power levels at WOT up to redline.

The 4k rev limit is because removing all that stuff is forcing the ECU into limp mode.

of course you will suffer from flat spot without abs, locking a wheel is easy if your system is strong enough, this is why you need to be a good driver to drive without the abs.

having a balance bar on a pedal system or in a seperate box like ours is the best in terms of control but of course it will never match a motorsport ABS, than again i don't want a system that is as expensive as the car and takes an engineer just to make it run.

If i was running GTLM in Tudor championship, i promise i would add a motorsport ABS. :)

We are doing amateur racing and bring the car in a 24 ft trailer, we ain't the kind of team to run a semi-trailer and have 7-8 crew members that are extremely knowledgable, it's driver and two passionnate guy who wrench for him, that's the type of team we are.

Respect to you. It's little club racers that keep enthusiasm flowing in the pits. Too many big business race teams out there for my liking. Old school clubman racing is grass roots.