BC Racing Time Attack FRS at Ultimate Track Car Challenge Video
 

Ultimate Track Car Challenge 2015

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.n...6c0a845a863116

From Le Mans spec prototypes to classic vintage racers the Ultimate Track Car challenge lets you compete head to head with some of the fastest cars in the USA. This year the Ultimate Track Car Challenge takes place at Virginia International Raceway where BC Racing NA sponsored driver Phil Grabow competes with some of the best in his Scion FRS.

Great video by BC Racing and I wish I could have embedded it but the link is worth a watch!

https://www.facebook.com/BCRacingNA/...01089733256551

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.n...2dbe1090bff41a

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.n...97045462_o.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.n...bfa1e1c37a3ac1

Tim,

Here are the basics:
Element Tuning Pro Comp Motor (Forged internals, internal oiling mods, big valve heads, secure rockers, and ET Lil accumulator kit, 9k rpm)
Hydra EMS, WB kit, and ET boost control
ET Custom valved BC Racing ZR 3 way coilovers and Swift Springs
Perrin Performance Oil Cooler, strut bar, PSR kit, Steering rack lock down, strut bar, motor mounts, shift knob, 3" exhaust, and over pipe
Whiteline sway bar, diff bushings, rear control arm bushings, toe rods, and front bump steer kit
Ma-Motorsports Roll Cage
RR Racing Brake Kit
Garrett 60 trim turbocharger
Element Tuning custom radiator
Element Tuning custom transmission cooler
....and a whole lot more custom and I'm sure I forgot a thing or two
Speedesign custom graphics

The car is in TT2 trim currently.

Great job Phil. Do you think think there's a sub-2:00 time in the car if you resolve your oiling issue? Seems like you'd be really competitive in the TT2 class if I'm not mistaken.

BTW love watching you drive. Any more in-car video?

Thanks! Check our YouTube channel for full videos.

I actually have the NASA TT2 lap record at VIR with a 1:58 in this FRS. We had the car way detuned to get through the event in one piece. Transmission and oil pressure are still a problem at higher power levels under racing conditions.

We worked with RR Racing to develop a brake kit on this car that would increase the rear to front brake torque bias.

A dry sump will be fitted to this car before it returns to the track so we had the car very detuned for this event (maybe 340 whp in gears 1-4 and a little more in 5th and 6th).

The current wing angle delivers about 600 lbs of DF at 100 mph but can exceed 1200 lbs at higher speeds.

Tim, the actual split is not likely something we'll publish but I was critical in getting the oem ABS system to be raceable on a car like this. Depending on the kit you buy the split varies but the full front and rear racing kit has the biggest bias change so it's really needed for track setup suspension on slicks and with downforce.

We haven't finished the dry sump yet since most have enough oil pressure with our motor build as is since many of the high power guys don't road race. We've pushed 500 whp at only 19 psi on the dyno to 9k rpm and still had 80 psi of oil pressure.

May I ask, why are you determined to keep the ABS? See my posts on here in the chassis/ braking section regarding ABS modification vs removal. Perhaps you could have some valid input??

I could well be in the market for a dry sump kit for my project.

Are the oiling issues here just surge or are they pump related?

Want to sell a wing?

Sorry for the late replies as I was out of the country getting a little R&R. Grass Roots Motorsports Magazine released the full lap video of the BC Racing Element Tuning FRS at UTCC VIR.

https://www.facebook.com/grassrootsm...type=2&theater

No but it's all custom. A heads up however is that whole wing assembly and mounts would approach $4k. It's a rea1 motorsports dry carbon wing so it's pricey. I'm sure you could make something for about $1k less.

I'll have to look at your thread but the reason I haven't totally given up is that ABS is good, so if I can make it work, great I'll take it. The problem however is that you cannot just unplug it. With the RR Racing brake kit we helped develop we've shifted much of that brake torque to the rear mechanically so we don't have to rely completely on the ABS modules brake force distribution so it's at least raceable in this form when the ABS faults. I'm thinking about plumbing is some driver adjustable bias valves like we have in our other race car to maybe turn down front brake torque even more.

If I'm going to forgo ABS I'll do it with a pedal box and two brake master cylinders. I'm starting to feel the ABS problem isn't completely brake related and more the entire "Stability Control" system freaking out and turning off the ABS. The system will fault on my car even when no excessive brake force is used but I'm jumping curbs aggressively. I have a OBD module one of the racers from FT86 Factory gave to force "Pedal Dance" and it does that where I could never get pedal dance to work but I'm still able to drive in a way to defeat the pedal dance.

The main oiling issue is just pressure/volume related and not oil starvation.

Thanks,
Phil Grabow

Thanks for your great reply there Phil.


I have bought a Tilton bias pedal box with reverse mount under foot master cylinders. Tilton 72-616 is the p/n.


I still don't know if I'll keep the ABS, especially after reading what you have written above about it bombing out on track!!

Yeah so the RR kit balances the brakes pretty well so I think most should try something like that first. The next step would be to try to plumb a pedal box with dual masters into the ABS system or maybe just a driver adjustable bias valve to tame down the front some but it's pretty close with just the kit.

Ultimately I would like to understand more about the "ABS/Stability" fault. The brakes feel really balanced now so I just don't think that is the number one reason for the fault anymore. I might step down a friction just so I have more pedal control. With a pedal box I would definitely use a smaller front master than OEM!

I don't think the stability control system (even though it's off) likes the wheel speed data I'm giving it by jumping all the curbs. In the end having consistent brake feel is more important than the ABS.

Looks like GRM put up a Youtube version also:

https://youtu.be/7BNo8LmdQX0

I give up...don't why it won't show the video here. :thumbdown:

Just for everyones info.. the stock master is two 1 inch pistons in series, diagonally split. The clutch master is 11/16 inch.


I will be starting with 0.7 inch bore on all three as a start.

@Nigelr32 i don't want to highjack the thread but Nigel you might want to put a bigger cylinder for the rear as for equal pressure on the pedal the rear will get less pressure, considering the pistons on the rear are moving less fluid, you could have a more balanced setup without having to go to the extreme with the balance bar and not having any play left to adjust.


do some search on the web on this subject, i have 0,7 rear and 0,625 front.