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First Batch V.S. Second Batch of 2013's
We all know when there is a new car there are faults in the first couple of cars sold. My question to anyone who knows, what month/year should you not have to worry about your 2013 hitting the dust anytime soon?
EX: This car is a "2013" but was most likely released and manufactured in late 2012 correct? If there was one manufactured in said 6/2013 would it be a "lemon" per se? |
I bought mine in May of 2012. First batch off the boat and have had the taillights replaced under warranty. That's it. Nothing else. Notta. No problems. No breakdowns. Nothing to report.
43k miles later with 4k of that FI and still waiting for the thing to break. |
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Nothing significant was fixed in the car since it was released other than some ECU re flash which you should have gotten regardless of model year via a TSB. This is one of those rare cases where the early models are just as good (or as bad I suppose) as the later ones. |
12/12 40k miles, only had a coilpack fail so far.
Don't worry about it, if you skipped the CEL position sensor thing in the sticky then you're good, only other problem is the DI seals failing which seems to have been very isolated at only a couple hundred cars maximum out of at least 70k running around North America. I wouldn't worry about any car, but if I had to pick a date it'd be 3/13 as that was 100% after the ECU update was for sure implemented at the factory for the DI issue. Have patience, if you're truly concerned about warranty take a break from the internet getting you all hyped up and drive it as-is until you cross 60k miles, by the time that happens 90% of the bugs will be worked out from the guys who drive harder and have deeper pockets. |
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If you want to mod your engine internals (I count forced induction as an internal mod as it greatly changes how the compression cycle works vs a normal tune), you need to do it based on an assumption you are going to write off the cost of the engine if something bad happens. If you are worried about the bodywork, there isn't anything that can't be addressed by a TSB. If you want to continue having warranty, you can always buy extended warranty... As for the 2013s, the only "major" issue was the ECU reflash to compensate for the specific throttle issue that would cause the DI seals to go bad. The bad idle TSB fix was addressed in the first 6 months of MY2013 production cars. -alex |
My car was built in March of 2013 and I haven't had any trouble with it.
humfrz |
March 2013 build with no problems, even with numerous track days.
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March 2012 build. I had my differential and tails replaced under warranty. All else good at 43k miles.
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I have a later batch of 2013. Purchased in april of 13, and was only on the lot a few days when I bought it.
I have had NO tail light issue, plenty of crickets and just had a defective clutch fixed - throwout bearing went bad after 30k miles but had that replaced earlier this month. The reason I know it was defective not me ruining it? Numerous reasons of not being a kid and this is my 6th car owned with a manual transmission, etc... But the main reason is that the replacement one feels miles different, better and has a proper engagement point instead of the too high one it used to have (that I just got used to so I never worried about it). Plus, it always took a tiny bit more effort to slide into 1st gear than I thought it should, and the new setup is butter smooth. Other than that, it's been great. Love the car. |
Damn, you guys drive a lot. First batch 2013 no warranty replacement on anything but I still have less than 10k on her.
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May 2013 build. No issues at all (not even crickets) besides taillight condensation that I just replaced with aftermarket instead of pursuing a warranty claim. All other problems are likely self inflicted.
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squeaky windows when wet is a common one.
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