Need help with FI issue!!
 

How's it going guys? Sorry for the long post, but I am currently in the middle of what has turned out to be one of the worst DIY experiences of my life. I purchased a turbo kit back in March, received it at the end of April, and have literally not been able to DD it since then.

First it was missing parts, then defective parts that forced me to bring it to a shop (for 2 months!) at the very end of the install, and a whole lot of money and waiting just to fix things that should have been correct in the first place. I would love to get into details, but I am still currently dealing with all companies involved so that is as far as I'll go for now until the situation is dealt with.

Now I finally have the car back in my garage. I was having issues with the basemap originally flashed on my car, it idled terribly, AFR was searching up and down the entire time, it hesitates when I press the gas, runs very rough, and goes dangerously lean when hitting boost or pressing the gas too hard in general. I went against my intuition to stick with dyno tuning, and decided to go with Delicious Tuning's 'Flash and Go' tune hoping that it would fix all of this. Of course it didn't, the idle is now very steady, but the lean condition is still there when hitting the gas, and it stalls very quickly if I press the gas then let go.

I was told my Direct Injection system is not acting normal from my logs, and it might be the ground to the DI module. I have every bolt and connection hooked up to it though. I also pulled my fuel pump back out of the tank, installed an extra o-ring (now 2 + white spacer), checked for leaks in vacuum hoses, intercooler piping, around MAF or MAP sensors, I uninstalled my Crawford AOS and plugged the PCV line back in. I don't know what else to do!! We thought it might be the 4 bar map sensor I have installed, but Bill from DT sent me a 5psi tune that uses my stock OEM map sensor, only the car acted the same way plus the idle issue came back even worse than before.

The only thing I could think of that's left, is that the kit I went with does not incorporate the crankcase vent hose routed underneath the AC compressor. Normally, that hose is plugged into the air intake AFTER the MAF right before the TB. I have tried VTA and then plugging it completely, and both do not change anything, has anyone customized their intercooler/silicone piping to plug that vent hose back in?? I'd appreciate any feedback at all, I am on the edge of my sanity right now, about to say f**K it all and ship everything back, sell the car, and go buy an S2000 or a Duramax. :mad0259:

I don't know where to start. Do you have experience with installation or maintenance of turbos?

If you are confused or frustrated, I recommend stepping back and taking a lot of pictures and show is how you have everything hooked up. Do not start the car and try to drive it. If its not correct it may cause some HUGE and expensive repairs.

Turbokit
ECUTEK or OFT?
Everything you can tell us about your car.

Do you still hear crickets?

Soinds like the DI modile. Review your logs. Look for big voltage drops timed with the weird AFR/misfires.

Need help with FI issue!!
 

had very similar issues with my kit that is running a borgwarner efr aswell as Crawford catchcan and 4 bar map sensor.

where the base map supplied wouldn't even allow the car to start. Maf values where way way off( I know they should be a bit off when you change the location of the maf)

I don't know the particulars about what my tuner did exactly but he did some logs of his stock car starting to compare to mine not starting. He adjusted until load matches stock one then went from there but he mentioned that he needed to layer a lot of diff fuelling tables to allow to run smoothly.

I'm also running a flex fuel kit.

All I know is that my issue could not have been resolved with s flash and go tune, needed dyno time

There is no way the crankcase vent tube is causing any of these issues. Do you have aftermarket injectors?

Run a heavy ground cable from your DI ECU mounting bolt right to the battery negative terminal, this is the first thing I do on cars that are being fussy. 9 times out of 10 it has cured the issue, not sure if this is your entire problem but it would eliminate one possibility and it quick and easy.

I have a decent amount of experience working on cars and ripping apart engines in general, but never owned or worked on a turbo/supercharged car (especially a brand new one) so I'm not familiar with these type of issues. But the kit I'm running is -

-Full Blown's stage 1 kit - GTX2867r
-Tuned with EcuTek, 4 bar map sensor (delicious tuning / flash n go)
-270lph FBM pump, 550cc Bosch injectors, Tial BOV (12psi spring), PT 39mm wastegate (7psi spring)

Yes the FBM supplied injectors, Bosch 550cc

Someone else mentioned this to me as well, but said attach it to anywhere on the frame of the car. The negative terminal sounds like it would be a better location, I'll try it out thanks.

That is what I am regretting, should have just spent the couple extra hundred dollars, I just couldn't decide on a shop on Long Island, NY I would trust with my car.

Sounds like you have a mechanical or electrical issue. Might be time to take it to a shop for troubleshooting.

A ground is a ground. The negative battery cable just goes to somewhere on the chassis. All that matters is that it makes good contact with the body which normally means grounding paint off.

Jhood,If you have some time, please contact me. I would like to set up a remote tune session so I can see what is going on with the car.

Yea the ground idea did not work unfortunately. And yes ever since the turbo went in the car has been "off" no matter what tune is on the car, it has to be something mechanical. The sad part is that I JUST picked it up from the shop this past week, and spent over a grand between labor and time fixing it, leak testing, etc and they came to the conclusion that "it had to be the tune causing issues". Now I see that wasn't the case.. we'll see what happens Monday if I can set up a remote session with Full Blown.

Also uploaded 2 logs that I took this week -
http://datazap.me/u/jhood/jhood-brz-...13-16-19-27-28
http://datazap.me/u/jhood/jhood-brz-...a=2-6-19-27-28
.

Look at your logs....the massive drop in battery voltage correlates with the massive drop in RPM. Check your DI module plugs and ground again.

I would tell you to pull out your pump module again, and make sure it's sitting tight, and straight. That lean condition when giving it gas, and weird AFR's I think might be related.

Well I got in contact with @FullBlown to set up a remote session, and after a few revisions from LJ, the car is finally running and driving with their basemap.. :thanks:

So I'm not exactly sure what the issue was, but at least I know the installation was all done correctly and it's not mechanical. At this point though I just gotta wait until Delicious Tuning figures some things out on their end to get their tune working as well as this map is now. I was told that the map scaling for my Omni 4 Bar provided by EcuTek is not very good, and that they've come up with their own that will hopefully help. If not, I'll probably just have to purchase one of their Map Sensors to do the job. Thanks for all the suggestions though guys I appreciate it.