Engine Oil Temp
 

Does anyone run oil temp gauge either through the torque app, oil temp guage or any other means?

How high do you see your oil get to?

I am running just the torque app and it getes up to 215F.

I dont do track or auto-x but I feel like I need an oil cooler. Around 200F sounds more reasonable temp.

:iono:

Without an oil cooler I maxed at 223F on a lapping day. I think 215 or under is OK for spirited driving but pretty high for a commute. It's been hot lately so that plays a roll too. I'd switch to 5W30 or even 0W40 in the hotter months to maintain viscosity. Use 0W20 in the winter. I have a supercharger presently and run 40 weight as recommended by HKS. Also have an oil cooler now.
If you don't track it or do autocross you can probably skip the oil cooler.

Even with an oil cooler I see 230 degrees on the track.

I run an autometer elite gauge and I see temps upwards of 250F on spirted backroad drives. Those temps are no problem for a good quality synthetic oil.Normally I get 220F in traffic stop and go. My temp prob is right at the filter in case you care.

correct modern synthetics will probably handle arround 300f before they break down but thats not the problem its the oil thins out at high temps. with most 0w20 oils your oil pressure is getting below 50psi at 7000 rpm once temps reach over about 230F.

If your seeing 250F+ then you should be looking at an oil cooler and/or running a higher viscosity oil like 5w30 10W30

their is some oil temp vs pressure data in the Basic bolt on mods guide link below.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=91820

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=cDfFJ5s6IDg"]FRS - BRZ Oil Pressure and Temperature Tech FA20 - YouTube[/ame]

I am considering running an oil cooler soon here, but I want to buy somecoilovers first. I do used oil analysis and so far my results are impeccable.The oil does thin out a little by the end of its 5000km interval but wearmetals are near no excitant.

I wouldn’t change my viscosity for a DD because 90% of engine wear doeshappen at cold starts and the 0W-20 will provide better protection on thosecold starts. Yes I know I could go with a 0W-30 but I have been told by anumber of people in the industry that oils that have a wider viscosity rangetend to provide less protection in areas like the camshafts or other high pressuresituations. I used to run Castrol titanium,but have now switched to their professional OE that still uses the sametitanium additive technology.

Yeah depends on local climate

It very rarely gets below +9C here and over 30C in summer is pretty common

local dealers put 10W30 in at service.

Lucky!! I see -35C to +35C hahaha!! I need an oil cooler with a thermostat and all my problems will be solved! Not the thread jack but any recommendations on what oil coolers are good? I like a side mount like HKS or Full Blown.

You want temps to be at/above the boiling point of water so any water in the oil can burn off.

Average temp range (in Celsius) should be 95-105C for a normal street car. I see a max of around 125C with my Cusco oil cooler + track use.

-alex

I second that you should get close to 100C to boil off the water. That is why OEM's recommend short oil change intervals if you only do short trips.

I hit 270 going up palomar south grade (tight uphill twisty) a week ago 80 degree ambient coolant was at 215. Oil cooler is going on soon as I want to start doing track days and I don't want it to creep any higher than that.

Edit: temps are degrees F

I run a few track days per year and highest I've seen so far is 258F. I will usually back off a bit for a lap to cool it down. Really need an oil cooler or something to bring it down a bit.

You definitely should be getting a cooler.

Engine Oil Temp
 

If you don't have enough protection at severe conditions, and your engine has metal to metal contact because of not enough additives or oil viscosity, then the cold start wear is meaningless. You really want to avoid boundary lubrication events:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/states-of-lubrication/

I don't believe that 90% wear is accurate anyway, probably just marketing. I can look around for some SAE papers on that though because I see it thrown around a lot. Whether or not your wide viscosity spread oil can provide protection in various parts of the engine depends mainly on the quality of base stocks, the oil additives, and the quality of viscosity modifiers used. Your statement was probably correct 10-15+ years ago, but there have been huge improvements in oils and oil additives over the past several years.

Here's some excellent information about viscosity modifiers by someone that is in the lubrication industry:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...pics/3788899/1

I'll also add that there are some very excellent 0Wx racing oils:
Mobil 1 Racing 0W30, 0W50 (track only, not street/track)
Red Line 0W20, 0W30, 0W40,
Motul 0W20, 0W40
and many others.

If I was looking for the optimum oil for hard driving, I would focus on High Temp High Shear and NOACK Volatility (evaporation at 300C). It's harder to find NOACK, but HTHS is a little easier to find. All Euro's oils that meet ACEA A3 have a high HTHS (30 grades and above) and so do race oils. This is why I would run a Euro 0W30 over a Resource Conserving/GF5 5W30. The GF5 5W30 will shear to a 20 grade in many conditions due to the low HTHS as these oils are designed for fuel economy.

Also note this high HTHS 0W30 available in Japan:

http://www.pleiades-zero.com/?page_id=2

:cheers: