Vortech FR-S Bogging RPM AND STALL
 

hey guys so I was hoping someone could shed some light on this situation and give me a sound reason on why these things happened. Installed the vortech on my AUTO. The install was done perfect except for one thing, in the instructions it says that the bov for MANUALS ONLY should tape into the brake booster line. And for AUTOMATICS uncap and tap into the intake manifold othe drivers side as stock it is capped for autos. I started the car up and it quickly bogged down and stalled on me I got it towed to my tuner and got it dyno tuned. After that it ran great for a week but always a little boggy with the rpms, now before you say it's the tune think about the bov and tapping into the wrong line and the intake manifold still being capped. The car then a week later bogged really bad about three times and stalled on me. Got towed to my mechanic and they changed my battery bc it was shit and then I fixed the bov and tapped into the intake manifold mechanic said all parameters while driving were within normal ranges and the car didn't bog down on him and stall at all. You could hear the bov opening and closing.
Now I'm sure vortech did this for a reason for manuals and autos and tapping into a different line but I don't know how this would affect bogging and stalling. This car is all electrical and it's always a mystery but idk I'm hoping someone could explain why they do this and or why this happened and now the car runs perfect

I also have an AT, and learned why the MT's and AT's have different connections there. The AT's have an additional vacuum pump on the passenger side cylinder head which throws off the BOV, too much vacuum I guess. So when you connect it to the manifold you're just getting regular manifold vacuum. Anyway, that's the answer, AT's have an additional pump in the vacuum line, and MT's don't.

Thanks so much bro !!

I wonder the reason why it would bog down like that... Maybe the engine was gaining too much back pressure from the manifold because it wasn't being allowed to be dispersed by the bov

Bump? Anyone else? Seems like a miracle that the car doesn't bog or stall now

did you check you MAP sensor if its installed properly? ill post a pic of the lines later where i tapped the little hose that goes to the BOV.

also if there's a problem with your BOV not releasing boost if you let go of the throttle, you should hear some "flutter" especially on high RPM.

I think it was bogging because it was spilling air at idle. When I had my turbo problems it was making noise at idle and spilling compressed air. The air has already been metered by the MAF sensor, so it would have been giving it way too much fuel for the air reaching the cylinders. I think the vacuum pump is there because AT's have to hold still against the pressure of the engine idling in drive at a stop, while MT's don't have that pressure. The BOV is set to open at high vacuum, like when you let off the throttle, but the vacuum pump gives it a bit too much vacuum at idle.

It hasn't bogged since fixing it so hoping I don't stall on the middle of the highway .. Shits scary as fuck

The vortech kit has the bypass valve located before the MAF sensor, so you can vent all the air you want and the MAF will read the correct amount ingested by the engine

i think it may have something to do with pressure and vaccum