Finally at home with a real keyboard.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mav1178
(Post 2320018)
Again I think you are going about this the wrong way. From the looks of this, you have not figured out how much you are willing to spend to fix the problem and just want to resolve this by throwing money at it.
If you have a fixed budget or limited financial resources, why the rush to cast a wide net when you can accomplish the same when a preliminary diagnosis is returned?
If you want to learn all there is to know about an engine, specifically this engine in your car, that's fine. But it's counter-productive to figure out a solution when you don't even know a cause.
This is akin to you having a headache and you're trying to figure out what is wrong with your body and worrying about everything from a brain tumor to just a lack of sleep to something unknown, and you haven't even set foot in the doctor's office yet.
Really, don't worry about solutions until you know what the cause is. Or spend your next few days fretting about it. up to you.
-alex
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I'm not looking for THE solution, I'm looking for solutionS. I believe it's best to approach a problem with as much info on-hand as possible. Depending on what the verdict is, I'll be better informed on what my choices are.
Doing nothing and waiting would make me fret more. I'd rather be productive and arm myself with knowledge.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboBRZ
(Post 2320242)
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FYI, those pistons you linked are 10:1 compression, not 12.5:1. I'm at max volume with the Sprintex 210, I wouldn't be able to make up for the lack of compression. So if I want to maintain what I had, according to what I've learned int his thread and seen online, I'll have to have the pistons made to order, so it'll be closer to $1000+. That said, if I'm only in for internals, that is acceptable.
However, if the block is cracked/unsalvageable, that would mean an engine AND internals. That's right around my pain point if I get a used engine, well beyond it if I go new. At that point, I would consider leaving the engine N/A and looking at a different platform.
There's also the potential for fuel system upgrades and a custom tune to consider as well. If I'm staying F/I, I'm going to make it as bulletproof as I can.
Quote:
Originally Posted by King Tut
(Post 2320585)
The oil could be as simple as the Robispec oil cooler failing or a line coming loose. The result was the car ran low on oil till eventually damage occurred. Might have nothing to do with the forced induction or the tune.
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That was my first thought when I saw the oil (I hadn't heard the ticking yet), but the oil cooler lines looked dry. I'll get a better look at the lower line when I get under there.
Quote:
Originally Posted by xkalelx
(Post 2320662)
Wow, so much speculation and attacks in here. Keep calm and wait until further information comes in.
OP: It doesn't take a master mechanic to determine if you blew out a rocker cover, leaking from the cam plate, or popped a line from the oil cooler. Grab a flashlight and throw this thread an update!
Cheers.
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Cam plate looks dry. I'll get under the car either tomorrow or Thursday, depending on weather and weather-related plans. I think I'll pull the header too. I have a crazy idea and want to rule it out. Pictures will be forthcoming.
