Please help. Lots of engine code errors.
 

Last night I opened the hood and pushed on my header flex joints to make sure they were ok. I also looked at other stuff. This morning the car sounded weird, under powered and sounded like one of the cylinders wasn't working as the UEL sound was much more pronounced. All I could think of was when I was touching the UEL headers so maybe it isn't sealed onto the engine anymore (became loose).

If anyone would like to come over tonight to help figure it out I'd appreciate it. (if I can make it home from work)

My scanguage gives me the following error codes:
P0202 - Cylinder 2 Injector Circuit Malfunction

and these shortly after the one above most of which I can't find descriptions for:
U3237
U3337
U3238
P0B37 - High Voltage Service Disconnect Open
P0F37
and many more.

Try resetting the ECU? You have a copy of your tune that you could use to attempt a re-flash?

I had my computer throw a bunch of random errors a while back due to my bluetooth dongle causing some can bus communication issues. I reset and all was back to normal, but I didn't have any mechanical symptoms at the time.

I pulled my car over a couple times, turned it off, and cleared the codes. Each time it seemed ok for a couple minutes but then went back to seeming like it was running without one of the cylinders. I don't have a dongle, the flash file or anything but I could contact Moto-East if I need to reflash or something (with someone's borrowed cable).

I would be there to help if I wasn't busy tonight...good luck hopefully it's nothing crazy

You can probably guess where I'll be after 6. I'll have tools with me. :D

Hopefully you can get Matt's car working. Put me on your list after you get his working. ;)

Can't make it out tonight. If you're still having issues I'll be able to stop by some time this weekend?

Your analysis reminds me of an old joke I heard about UEL equipped Subaru.

Mechanic 1 "How do you know if a modified Subaru is misfiring?"
Mechanic 2 "I don't know"
Mechanic 1 "Me neither"

After work I got in my car. I cleared the codes. Started the car. Sounded normal. Sat there a few minutes and no codes and seemed normal. Drove home and even stopped at a couple places on the way. Everything is normal now.

No idea why it decided to crap on my morning but now it's fine. I didn't do anything different. My gas was low this morning but not any lower than it's been in the past, plus I filled up on the way to work, limping along with 3 cylinders. Maybe my car's pissed that I didn't wash it or I took off the side skirts to sell them. Or maybe Matt's luck came to my car so his would work out great.

Hmmm. Interesting theory...

My car worked fine again this morning. Maybe it was a weird issue with me being low on gas the other morning and it needed to sit with a full tank for a while. Who knows.

My mantra at work, "I fucking hate mysteries."

I just started my car today for the first time since last night. I'm getting similar engine codes are I was back on July 1st. Not sure why it ran fine late July 1st until now.
Engine codes:
P0202
P0032
P0033
P0034
P0037
P0038

I look at the engine and everything looks ok. WTF is going wrong? :( I don't want my car to stop working before next Sunday's 86 meet!!! :(

Where are the coil packs and how would I go about swapping two different cylinder's coil packs to see if that's the issue?

Here's my standard trick. Without removing any of the coil packs, disconnect each one and listen for the idle to drop. If it does, reconnect and move on because that one is ok. When you disconnect the bad one the engine won't run any rougher. Make sense?

The packs are way down just inboard of the frame rails. The connectors stick out the rear-facing side of each coil pack. It's tight down there but, while the engine is cold, practice disconnecting one and then see if you can plug them in just shy of clipping them. Then you can disconnect it, decide, and then reconnect it if it's good.

Do you have pictures? What does the frame rail look like? On the drivers side I see the injectors on the top covered by the black metal thing.

If you're free today I'm home if you'd like to help me. :) If so PM me and I'll give you my info. If you're not free then no worries.

Sorry, I'm in the middle of installing new struts in my wife's camry.

These are the coil packs. You'll recognize what I'm calling the frame rails when you locate the coil packs on your engine.

http://i.imgur.com/awKyDGq.jpg

Found the coil packs before your picture, but now I know for sure that's what they were. I was able to barely squeeze my hand down there to unplug them one by one. The only one that didn't change the idle was the drivers side closest to the front.

Does this mean I have a bad coil pack? If so why would it have failed back on the morning of July 1st, then be ok up until this morning?

Edit: It means that cylinder is already not firing.

99.5% of the time, intermittent failures are cracked solder joints or other component connections that move relative to each other during expansion and contraction of thermal cycling.

So I should order a new coil pack then? Would you say a Subaru one or do they make mo' betta ones that are aftermarket?

Could it also be a fried spark plug? and is the spark plug inside the tube where the coil pack is and to get to the spark plug I'd need to remove the coil pack first? Should I change both?

All this makes me wish my debt was paid off and I have my BMW i3 still. I'll be getting an electric car for sure after I pay my shiz off.

I imagine it was a premature failure so I would just replace the one with a new OEM one. I"m guessing Denso.

If the car had 100 Kmi then I would recommend replacing all 4 because they are like light bulbs. They have a certain life expectancy, give or take. In that case, I might just go with some aftermarket ones.

Def not the plug. Once we got away from carburettors, combustion chamber conditions became much more controlled. I quit messing with conventional spark plugs. The set in my Eclipse were perfectly serviceable after 100K. Not really burned so just gapped and reinstalled them.

When I replaced the coil packs on my daughter's Acura, I pulled one of the iridium-tipped plugs just to check. At 150K, it was practically new.

look up all those codes on internet google the code number plus subaru
eg p0200 subaru.

they are for injectors o2sensors heater circuits.

i think you have an electrical problem
crook or dying battery or crook alternator causing voltage fluctiuations rearly weird stuff happens in modern cars if voltages not stable.

or you have a intermittent short in wirinig to 02 sensors maybe melted ect

check your fuses for 02sensor heater circuits, check the 02 sensors are actually plugged in correctly.

look up all those codes on internet google the code number plus subaru
eg p0202 subaru.

they are for injectors o2sensors heater circuits.

i think you have an electrical problem
crook or dying battery or crook alternator causing voltage fluctiuations rearly weird stuff happens in modern cars if voltages not stable.

check earth connections check battery and alternator connections, measure volts when car is running should be stable 14 v or close to that.

or you have a intermittent short in wirinig to 02 sensors maybe melted ect

check your fuses for 02sensor heater circuits, check the 02 sensors are actually plugged in correctly.

Oh, if the codes don't point to a simple misfire, then, yeah. I wouldn't go for the o2 sensor because that wouldn't cause a single cylinder misfire.

A dead injector or driver circuit would correspond to a dry misfiring cylinder which would drive the o2 level high because it's just an air compressor.

...probably not the igniter. -____-

I don't think I've ever changed a coil pack or distributor before, only spark plugs. We shall see if I can find one tomorrow at a dealer, get my tools up there and get the new one in. It's really tight.

Checked the battery and it has the correct voltage. Checked all the wires on the o2 and maf and various other areas like coil packs and they all look tight and stable. I'll check the fuses inside the cabin and let you guys know if I see anything amiss.

Would you say don't drive my car until I get the new one installed? Wondering if I should drive it to get parts and to work or work from home.

Definitely no drive. @steve99 checked your codes. I assumed you had already done that.

P0202 is a dead giveaway and fits with the misfiring cylinder. Injector or circuit.

http://i.imgur.com/v8k6lwY.png

@steve99, are there fuses for each injector driver or is it just one fuse?

If there's just one fuse, I'm going to suspect bad port injector. Swap #2 and #4 injectors and see if the code changes to a P0204.

P0202 is the first code I get every time after clearing the codes.

Pull the driver's side fuel rail and swap the injectors. Then wait to see if you pop a P0204 code. Or, as a possible "I'm feeling lucky" move, replace that injector altogether. Worst case you'll have a known good spare injector for future troubleshooting.

If in either of those scenarios you keep getting P0202, then the problem lies in the connector or upstream.

There are other things you could do to test but it requires a multimeter and/or a 12V pwr supply to test or trigger the injector manually.

For reference, these are the codes that indicate a coil pack/igniter.

http://i.imgur.com/BJKy9dH.png

So if I still get the P0202 after swapping injectors, then we still think it's the coil pack? and if not it's the injector? I'll try that next. I've never taken apart an injector or fuel rail but there's a first time for everything. Just as long as I don't end up like Matt. ;)

No, then it gets more complicated. Forget about the coil pack. I wasn't paying any attention to your codes when I first replied. Sorry about that.

Hopefully it's just the injector then. I'm guessing I'm doing the direct injector first to see if it's switching codes and the port injector or only direct?

Not the DI. Just port injector. Swap #2 and #4 port injectors and see if the trouble code follows the injector. If the injector is bad, you will see a P0204 code instead of P0202.

The direct injectors are the ones on top with the metal cover correct and port are on the bottom some where?

The port injectors, the ones you're interested in, fit into the intake manifold. It's pretty easy to get to them. The direct injectors fit right into the head.

I'm glad it's not the DI injectors as I'm watching this video currently and I'd have to take my supercharger off to get to them! [ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sdeO4rBwuQ4"]Scion FR-S BRZ Direct Injector Seal Replacement | Problems and Issues - YouTube[/ame]

I just found your other thread. I wasn't aware the ECU was able to detect coil pack failures. That's a first for me. Damn things keep getting smarter all the time :thumbsup:

I'm going to swap the port injectors right now so hopefully all goes well and I don't break anything else.

Don't forget to bleed off the fuel pressure or catch it with a rag when you disconnect the fuel line from the rail. Easiest one to disconnect is the crossfeed line between the rails. That's the one with the blue clip.