Do you have pictures? What does the frame rail look like? On the drivers side I see the injectors on the top covered by the black metal thing.

If you're free today I'm home if you'd like to help me. :) If so PM me and I'll give you my info. If you're not free then no worries.

Sorry, I'm in the middle of installing new struts in my wife's camry.

These are the coil packs. You'll recognize what I'm calling the frame rails when you locate the coil packs on your engine.

http://i.imgur.com/awKyDGq.jpg

Found the coil packs before your picture, but now I know for sure that's what they were. I was able to barely squeeze my hand down there to unplug them one by one. The only one that didn't change the idle was the drivers side closest to the front.

Does this mean I have a bad coil pack? If so why would it have failed back on the morning of July 1st, then be ok up until this morning?

Edit: It means that cylinder is already not firing.

99.5% of the time, intermittent failures are cracked solder joints or other component connections that move relative to each other during expansion and contraction of thermal cycling.

So I should order a new coil pack then? Would you say a Subaru one or do they make mo' betta ones that are aftermarket?

Could it also be a fried spark plug? and is the spark plug inside the tube where the coil pack is and to get to the spark plug I'd need to remove the coil pack first? Should I change both?

All this makes me wish my debt was paid off and I have my BMW i3 still. I'll be getting an electric car for sure after I pay my shiz off.

I imagine it was a premature failure so I would just replace the one with a new OEM one. I"m guessing Denso.

If the car had 100 Kmi then I would recommend replacing all 4 because they are like light bulbs. They have a certain life expectancy, give or take. In that case, I might just go with some aftermarket ones.

Def not the plug. Once we got away from carburettors, combustion chamber conditions became much more controlled. I quit messing with conventional spark plugs. The set in my Eclipse were perfectly serviceable after 100K. Not really burned so just gapped and reinstalled them.

When I replaced the coil packs on my daughter's Acura, I pulled one of the iridium-tipped plugs just to check. At 150K, it was practically new.

look up all those codes on internet google the code number plus subaru
eg p0200 subaru.

they are for injectors o2sensors heater circuits.

i think you have an electrical problem
crook or dying battery or crook alternator causing voltage fluctiuations rearly weird stuff happens in modern cars if voltages not stable.

or you have a intermittent short in wirinig to 02 sensors maybe melted ect

check your fuses for 02sensor heater circuits, check the 02 sensors are actually plugged in correctly.

look up all those codes on internet google the code number plus subaru
eg p0202 subaru.

they are for injectors o2sensors heater circuits.

i think you have an electrical problem
crook or dying battery or crook alternator causing voltage fluctiuations rearly weird stuff happens in modern cars if voltages not stable.

check earth connections check battery and alternator connections, measure volts when car is running should be stable 14 v or close to that.

or you have a intermittent short in wirinig to 02 sensors maybe melted ect

check your fuses for 02sensor heater circuits, check the 02 sensors are actually plugged in correctly.

Oh, if the codes don't point to a simple misfire, then, yeah. I wouldn't go for the o2 sensor because that wouldn't cause a single cylinder misfire.

A dead injector or driver circuit would correspond to a dry misfiring cylinder which would drive the o2 level high because it's just an air compressor.

...probably not the igniter. -____-

I don't think I've ever changed a coil pack or distributor before, only spark plugs. We shall see if I can find one tomorrow at a dealer, get my tools up there and get the new one in. It's really tight.

Checked the battery and it has the correct voltage. Checked all the wires on the o2 and maf and various other areas like coil packs and they all look tight and stable. I'll check the fuses inside the cabin and let you guys know if I see anything amiss.

Would you say don't drive my car until I get the new one installed? Wondering if I should drive it to get parts and to work or work from home.

Definitely no drive. @steve99 checked your codes. I assumed you had already done that.

P0202 is a dead giveaway and fits with the misfiring cylinder. Injector or circuit.

http://i.imgur.com/v8k6lwY.png

@steve99, are there fuses for each injector driver or is it just one fuse?

If there's just one fuse, I'm going to suspect bad port injector. Swap #2 and #4 injectors and see if the code changes to a P0204.

P0202 is the first code I get every time after clearing the codes.