General consensus on turbo kit nowadays?
 

Is there finally a consensus when it comes to turbo kits for the FA20?

It's already known that the stock block is only safely good for around 250whp under track conditions.

But what I'm curious to here is where most turbo kits stand?

The only three kits I'm interested in are the ptuning kit, SPD kit with OFT350 upgrade & the MA performance kit. I'm not a fan of internally wastegated kits given my previous experience in turbo cars with internal WG's.

The MA performance unfortunately comes with a UEL header so that "MAY" be a deal breaker.

Base map that's capable of a reliable 8psi daily driving would be a huge + but not required.

My goals are 300whp on E85 max of 10-12PSI street, and 6-8 PSI at the track in socal heat.

I may plan on building the block but that'll come a lot later.


Update: Discovered the revworks GTX3076R kit. Looks like that may be the kit to go with assuming the header is EL. I think it might be UEL though... no modifications to factory crash bar is pretty nice however.

Very interesting list of kits you are considering. One is not like the others. I don't agree that a stock block can only take 250 whp on track. Why do you want a turbo? With your modest goals it seems like you fit more into the supercharger crowd.

I agree.


The Jackson Racing Super Charger + Oil Cooler Kit is probably all you need, really.


Maybe Flex Fuel if you have access to E85 as well.

Why do you think the block is only good for 250whp for the track? Our shop car makes 420+whp on E85 and 320+whp on pump and we track it regularly. Let me know if you have any questions for the Ptuning turbo kit.

How long your stock block lasts depends on tune and were you're making your power, not just how much power your making.

You can slap a turbo on it and only have 200hp but if your tune sucks your on borrowed time.

And one engine might break at 300hp while another might live fine at 500hp, it depends were in the rpm range your making it. It takes more torque to make horespower lower in the rpm range, torque breaks things.

What is it about a UEL header that would make you discount the rest of the kit?

There's no general consensus on turbo kits.

I think we all pretty much agree on a few very high quality/well designed kits, but ultimately the kit decision depends on many factors that often differ greatly between buyers.

EL header is known to net more power iirc.

I don't think the block is only good for 250whp. But when I track the most it's only in the summer where it is 110F +

It's promising that you guys are doing 320whp and tracking it :) but SoCal pump sucks.

I'm just not looking for big power initially. The reason for turbo is for the future potential of making bigger power when I want to and have the supporting mods.

Sound and UEL is known to be slightly less efficient than EL. I personally just enjoy EL more than UEL.

The only kits I've been interested in are Ptuning, JDL, and Full Blown.

I can't comment on any of those kits as I've never driven one but those 3 are probably arguably the best ones I've seen. King Tut even had a Full Blown turbo kit on his BRZ as well. I'm sure he can tell you a lot about FullBlown

I haven't seen many owners or talk of the JDL kit but I know that their stuff is VERY HIGH quality because their products are hand crafted and they have a single scroll and twin scroll kit.

And as for Ptuning, I honestly don't know much about them other than they got 300whp with 6 PSI and they have much better heat management so if you're tracking heating shouldn't be much of an issue.

I put a PTUNING kit on my S2000 though as I liked their approach of a low side mount better than the forward facing kits that most companies designed. You can't go wrong with a Full Blown or PTUNING kit on this car, but the two designs are quite different.

I would say heat management, low end torque and tune are your crucial factors, not necessarily in that order.

It is a misnomer that the stock engine (not block) is maxed at 250 WHP. From my research it appears stock clutch, fueling, intermals are good for probably at least 300-350 BHP (260-300 WHP) before things are to far out of tolerance.

Some things might break due to other factors, eg. axles due to revised suspension geometry from lowering.

People in the know, please correct me if you feel I am wrong.

From what I've read also, its not the block that's the issue. Its the connecting rods that let go and as a result the block has a window...or two.

Check out the PTuning Owner's Thread. There's quite a few of us who track regularly with this kit! http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56235 (see more recent posts)