i did what you need to know?
you removed the sexondary o2, disable it in tune, and connect the wideband to the blu cable of secondary o2 plug in engine
Do not use the ground of the sensor plug, just use the blue cable that is the input
Take ground for sensor and power from another source, i took it in the fuse box under the steering wheel
If you put ground into the ecu in the secondary o2 plug, it will give bad readings

Quick questions...I have the opportunity to get the HKS GT2 full system With ECU Upgrade for a really good price. From what I have gathered, older HKS superchargers had reliability issues but the GT2 was rebuilt and is supposed to be more durable, correct? If so, I am not too worried about durability.

The big issue that comes up for me is installation. I went through the installation guide and it has cutting a lot of pieces to make this kit fit. It isnt too big of a job for me to do, and I'm confident I can complete the installation by myself, but I don't have any rotary tools or anything like that, so I would have to buy them to get this to work. Has anyone installed the GT2 kit, and does it still require all the trimming of the brackets? Just want to factor in buying of the tools into the cost.

Also, the ECU package says it comes with pre-loaded tunes, has anyone run with this pre-loaded 91 octane tune, and how does it run?

Thanks everyone!

100% you need to trim metal parts with a rotary tool


hks tune are maf based and lambda-offset, so they run leaner than 14.7 afr during closed loop, then in open loop section they run quite rich and low timing
they are ok, very safe , not so powerfull, quite reliable

the cutting isn't too much of a task. I used an oscillating tool with variable speed and it was quicker than a rotary tool.

I just bought a Mishimoto slim fans too so I skipped cutting the fan part, LoL.

One advice tho, cut your oil cooler hoses at least a half inch longer than what it says in the instructions.

Hi HKS S/C gurus,

Can anyone tell me if the JDM spec GT2 kit will work with my USDM spec BRZ? The part numbers are different but the parts look the same as the V3 kit if I'm not mistaken. I have an opportunity for a friend to mail one of these to me and it would be much cheaper than buying a kit here. TIA

v3 is a different kit than the V2 sold in japan
v2 is also sold in US anyway
you have to choose between v2 and v3, otherwise kits are the same for all cars, besides the hks flash editor unit that no one buys anyway

I did some reading on V2 vs V3. The kit in question is the 12001-AT012

https://www.hks-power.co.jp/en/produ...arger/db/20246

Do you know if this would be V2 or V3? I see you have the V2, how has the ownership experience been? And which tuning solution did you go with?

at012 is a v2 standard kit
it comes out with restrictor 39mm and 90mm pulley

v3 has no restrictor but 110mm pulley so less boost overall, but has also a bigger intake pipe which gives more airflow

The typical Radium setup for your dual cans I assume?

Hi guys I recently bought a used GT2-7040L kit and of course when I got it I wanted to see how it worked and spun it by hand back and forth a few times. I then was doing some reading and it appears that some older models came with a disclaimer not to spin it in reverse. Do you think I did any damage or can I stop being paranoid? Thanks

I have a V2 dyno tuned and with the intake restrictor removed. I think this will be the 8th year and at least 50K km on it trouble free. Stop being paranoid. The oil wouldn't pump internally if spun in reverse at high speed, which would destroy the unit. Also, there's a small spring-actuated mechanism that disengages the internal rollers to some extent at lower to idle speeds. Almost like a centrifugal clutch. This is unique to the HKS system compared to a regular Rotrex based design. It's probably ok, but don't mess with it just to be safe.

Hey guys couple of questions, I got my kit installed and is currently being tuned and running pretty well. Do you guys check the sc oil with the cap screwed in or just resting on the threads? Also it seems like there’s a belt squeal noise that lasts 5-10 minutes every time I drive until the oil heats up, is that normal or will it go away eventually?

Let it heat up a bit before pushing it. I dip without screwing. Make sure you use cold weather traction fluid if driving in cold conditions. That squeal is probably the TOB,not related to your SC.