It may be a problem on the drivers side but keep in mind that even if it does fit if you have to use an extension or u-joint the torque wrench isn't going to be accurate.

I've been working on cars for over 20 years and have never found the need to use a torque wrench with spark plugs. For 12.5 ft-lbs just snug them down until they are tight, if you're the type to muscle everything down then you shouldn't be working on delicate things like spark plugs.

I'm not against using a torque wrench, just not for everything.

Oh I agree, was just commenting on the mention of using one.

Just make sure its more tight than not, I had an issue when I did mine the car was not firing all cylinders correctly.

Slightly more on my Peugeot 107 and it still starts first turn

Changed out my OEMs to HKS today...I'm in the middle of a bunch of installs so I had removed a lot of what was necessary to do the FSM method anyway... so I went with it. Well, kind of... there were a few things I did different but close enough..

Here are some pics from my install...

The Bottle Jack was great for this swap. My 86 is currently on jacks (14" off ground) so I was able to place the bottle jack on the ground... Luckily I hoarded a bad axle from the landing gear of a C550 because I used it to extend the jack while maintaining a solid jacking point.

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2..._214002299.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...ugs%20RR19.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...gs%20RR21.jpeg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...ugs%20RR20.jpg

This is a high as I raised either side...

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...ugs%20RR07.jpg

I was able to torque the plugs and coil packs... the FSM method really made the swap almost frustration free.

Engine lifted on the passenger side...

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...ugs%20RR09.jpg

You could see the work space created with the engine angled in these pics...

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...ugs%20RR18.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...ugs%20RR03.jpg


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what's a resonable cost for labor to replace the spark plugs if I ask them to change them out while they fix a timing cover leak (which would require them to drop the engine)? Figured if they're taking it out, might as well do a bit more.

I'm only at 35k now but figured since it's out and if the price isn't too bad, i'd knock it out now.

If the engine is out ........ maybe one hour (rounded up of course) of labor.

I'm guessing at around $50.


humfrz

You have a lot of faith on that Jack. You must not be living on an earthquake zone. :) Thanks for the post really smart thinking :) I think it would be best if you had an engine support brace to double support the engine for safety.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...c1bbc28d6f.jpg

Here is how I did it.

Sent from my SM-N915T using Tapatalk

This is just crazy to replace spark plugs. This is probably the biggest downfall of the boxer design.

It looks like I am in for some pain. I have left it way too long (270,000KM) & now I am getting a P0350/351 code. Hopefully not a coil pack & just worn out spark plugs. One way to find out. lol

While I have to agree an engine lift is safer than a jack, when I ask how they do it at the dealership, they said they just use a jack under the motor.

Wtf! You seriously have 270,000kms?!?!

Jesus Christ, I'm curious too, how does it drive and how has it aged at that many miles. At that mileage it's time for a full spark plug, coil pack and every fluid you can think of change.