Car Hauling Trailer
 

For the guys that trailer their cars to the track what type of trailers do you guys use? open or enclosed? what brand is it? where did you guys get it from?

Trying to get feedback on what type of trailers people have and use and what their experience is with them since I'm considering getting one really soon.

With a fully enclosed car an open trailer works well. This happens to be a rollback so no ramps are needed and a very low car can be loaded. An open is easier to haul because the view around the car is better than around a box, and is often lighter than an enclosed. I got this one used and wrecked. (Texas rollback) I also have an enclosed for my open cars. I got it with the height one foot less as dragging dead air is more costly. Both have a large winch in the front as racing or tracking is hard on the car. I would also mention that a good tow vehicle is recommended. Because I do long halls I use a 3/4 ton diesel even then high winds in the mountains are the wrong kind of exciting.

I have a 20' fully enclosed trailer. We full time in our motorhome so it acts as a garage/shop also.

By the way I have a whole set of tie down rails for sale if anyone is interested.

Well recently I got a 2015 GMC Sierra Denali 2500HD Diesel. So towing is really not a problem.

Just want to see what trailers people recommend and which is better then others so I go with right choice.

I prefer open for usability but on longer hauls I find enclosed is nice for the security. I am in the same boat looking to purchase a new trailer, my biggest hold up is where to store it when not in use. The wife says she wouldnt mind it on the side of the garage but I know that wont last.

A secondary consideration factor is that enclosed trailers act as shelter at the track, reducing the need for a tent.

Comes in handy if you've ever been to a track on a hot or windy day.

-alex

Since you've got the truck for it... Enclosed all day long. all....day....long.

Make sure to get the 8.5ft wide.. Don't get less than that, you'll want the width and considering your truck I'd go with a 20 or 24ft with an equalizer hitch and 5200lb axles or better.

Get 10 ply tires (E-rated), set them at max pressure when COLD.

The enclosed is nice because:
1: It's some place to go that's out of the elements while at the event (Hot sun, rain, etc).
2: You can leave track specific stuff in it like jack/stands/tent/table/chairs etc. Therefore it greatly reduces what you have to load/unload at each event.
3: It protects the car during transport.
4: You can sleep/camp in it if doing an event longer than 1 day.

Cons:
1: Heavier so MPG while towing is hurt
2: A bit more maintenance: take care of seems and make sure water stays out
3: Extra weight, don't drive fast... but should be said for all trailers as trailer tire are only rated for 65MPH at their rated loads.


Look for good used ones that have "extras" like cabinets, capabilities for power, power jack, lighting etc. Having some amenities instead of just having a "Box with wheels" is very nice. I like that I can plug in shore power or my generator and my trailer and it's outlets have power. Run computers, recharge batteries, run a compressor etc etc.

I'm getting an enclosed trailer. Did the uhaul with an open trailer and it isn't much nicer than just driving the car there. Still have lots to mess with with loading and unloading of the extra gear (and the gear isn't secure unless it is in the cab of the truck).

is there any specific brands to look for when shopping for either enclosed or open trailer?

All the brands have lower and higher end options so it's hard to recommend one over the other necessarily.

Once you start looking for something with higher end specs you've already pretty much sorted out the bad options.

Narrow search by:
-5200lb axles or better (if the GVWR is 10k that means 5200lb axles)
-Electric brakes on both axles
-Lighting
-Electrical outlets
-Ventilation
-Maybe E-track, shelving or other things like that.

Most trailers I would avoid have brakes on only 1 axle, 3500lb axles, 1 vent, 1 light (maybe) and only 4 tie downs.

Pretty common brands are HaulMark, CargoMate, Wells Cargo.

Mine's a cargo mate "Blazer". Bare bones but i added mu own cabinets and tool boxes.

Since you have a good hauler an enclosed is a good option for longer weekends and trips. Beware that you will want to carry more and more stuff.
An extra set of dry tires and rims, asset of wet, 30 gal of known gas, all the fluids, jack stands, jack, tools, more tools, air compressor, air tools, spare part, like rotors pads etc. etc. A popup rain and sun cover. Oh and tent, sleeping bags, and other camping stuff.
Now you know why you need E rated tire and heave springs and all wheel brakes.

ls1ac-- in for details of what gets hauled in that trailer!!

OP-- One of the biggest advantages of an open trailer is the visibility it allows behind the tow vehicle. It's also lighter and sleeker than an enclosed version, so it's easier to pull. The biggest disadvantage of an enclosed trailer is how poor the gas mileage is. There's no getting around it; you're towing a giant box through the wind, so mileage will suffer. Whether it's 3000 pounds empty or 6500 pounds loaded, highway mileage stays the same: low. There are some better alternatives, like the Aerovault, but they are expensive and limited in size. The fact is, if you're going to tow, you have to decide which option has the advantages you need and just deal with the downsides that come with it.

I use an open trailer. Tow vehicle is a 3/4 ton suburban 8.1L. Fuel economy sucks but everything else is cheaper than a diesel. Burb lets everything else stay in the truck so no unloading issues.


Enclosed trailers are awesome also, but got sick of security issues and the pain in the ass it was to store (no room at the house for it).

Thanks for all the feedback. I ended up getting a open trailer from big tex. Came with a lot of nice features and I will be using it in 2 weeks and see how it goes.

I tow my Project BRZ with my 2014 Touareg TDI and a Featherlight Open 18' Trailer. I like the open trailers due to the milage, maneuverability and ability to tow with a smaller tow vehicle. Enclosed are great if you have the tow vehicle for it. Look at ATC for an enclosed.

-mike

Took me most of a summer of cl browsing, but i'm <$1500 deep in this after a new set of tires.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y63...psenczebi3.jpg

Thinking of getting a Sundowner 4000ap aluminum trailer in 16' size...need to keep tow weight to around 4k for my Frontier as that's max recommended for smooth towing with it. Anyone have any experience with them? Any other suggestions for an open trailer that weighs 1400lbs or less? Less than 1300lbs would be more ideal.

Trailex
Featherlite

Also a frontier will do 5-6k easily!

Mike

The real advantage of a roll back is the very low approach angle. One of my cars is very low and has a long splitter. Evan with a tilt bed the splitter would drag if I did not use a long extender ramps, and would high center going onto a normal flat.

I've got a stupid question to ask... is there any buffer that you should consider when considering a trailer package. Say the Brz is 3000lbs and the trailer is 1400lbs would any vehicle that is rated to tow 4500lbs be good to go?

That's a great question.

I've been towing for about 25 years. Here is some insight. The towing capacity of the vehicle is inclusive of all the gear and passengers in the tow vehicle.

So if you have 4 people and 400lbs of gear in the car and the trailer weight is 1500 and the car with all the fluids and any cargo on the trailer weighs 3000. You would need a towing capacity of about 5700 or more. Additionally you want to make sure you load the trailer so that the back of the tow vehicle isn't too heavy but also isn't too light. I use the equalizer hitch which is a weight distributing and anti sway hitch and worth every penny of the $500 it costs.

Mike

Just to word it another way for clarity, manufacturers want to advertise the highest towing capacity possible for obvious reasons, so the listed capacity is generally what you can tow with an empty car.

Remember towing capacity isn't usually limited by what the hitch can handle. It's limited by the amount of mass the drivetrain/brakes/etc... can handle. Mass is mass, regardless of whether it's on a trailer, or in the car. Anything you add on to, or inside of, your car detracts from your official towing capacity.

I've owned open and enclosed and prefer an open trailer. I can store it at my house behind the fence and makes for a weight distributing hitch being unnecessary. I tow the BRZ / Miata with the F1fitty. I have a truck box mounted on the A-frame at the front of the trailer. That allows for storing jack, jack stands, fuel cans, random stuff. Tools, etc go in the bed, along with spare wheels / tires / cooler.

One thing I really like about the trailer, and sought out, are drop axles. Those get the floor of the trailer lower to the ground, so the loading angle is better. I don't have to rig up 2x10 boards, etc to load my car. I do have to jack the tongue to help with the loading angle slightly. And, because it's open, it's easier to load and tie down, for me. I grab the factory tie down / shipping points on the chassis and pull to the rear on either side, then the front eyelets for the front. My trailer has an open deck but that hasn't proven to be a hindrance or benefit either way. Oh, another thing my trailer has that is very important if you have drop axles... removable fender on driver side. This allows you to open the door to get in / out.

The trailer I'd really like to have is...

~ Aluminum (Lighter, no rust... considerably more expensive)
~ Open Car
~ Drop Axles
~ Electric trailer jack on the front for jacking the tongue to help with loading angle. I can engage that while I start unhooking tow straps (Speed to unload)
~ Truck box on the front A-frame / tongue for stuff. At least 3500# axles. LED lights.
~ Brakes on all 4 wheels.
~ Driver-side trailer fender that is on a hinge, and will swing out of the way without needing to be lifted / removed. (Ease / speed to load / unload)
~ Winch mounted to the trailer, wired up with heavy duty plug that plugs into the truck. For instance, a plug like what is used on golf carts to plug them in to charge. Requires wiring plug to rear bumper of truck.
~ 8 ply, Load Range D tires <--- Important. You may have to chuck the tires that come on the trailer and buy better ones. You will, sooner or later.

A few of those things are related to speed and ease of loading / unloading. When I load up at the house, I want it done quickly as I may be late to load up. When I get to the track, I need to unload very quickly as there are other things I need to do. When I'm loading up at the track to head home, I want that done very quickly, etc.

When you're at the track every month, all of this stuff adds up.

As for trailer tires... one of life's great hassles (the others being trailer light wiring and wheel hubs)... I have gone many thousands of miles with these tires. When I first bought them they were marketed as a Signet brand tire. Now Discount Tire sells them under a different name. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.

https://www.discounttiredirect.com/b...radial/p/29484

I currently own a maxxd drop-n-load trailer... it is a bagged open trailer... but if I had to do it over again, I would go with this aluminum trailer https://futuratrailers.com/low-loade...axle-trailers/ or a 24ft enclosed.

Security and protection from elements would be my top two reasons to go with an enclosed trailer.

IG @zeal.eightsix

I have an open steel trailer made by Econotrailer with tire rack and tool box (added separately). I went with steel because of price and knowing that I had sufficient tow capacity. My Tahoe, with towing package, is rated for 8100 lbs. Car and trailer together are around 4700, leaving a lot of margin plus plenty of room for spare wheels and tires and tools. Any remaining cargo goes in the Tahoe.

When comparing with aluminum trailers, new, without the tire rack and box, was nearly twice the price. Even used trailers were significantly more money and I would need to service the trailer completely to be comfortable in using it. By buying new, I had new brakes, new tires, new hubs, coupler, break-a-way system etc. Yes, I will probably need to touch up the spray enamel on the steel trailer at the end of each season.

If I went any heavier, I'd want a better, longer wheel base, tow vehicle. Indeed, I am shopping for a new GM 2500 pickup.

Note, if anyone wants a similar trailer setup, I can put you in touch with my guy who did the custom work and built the roll cage for my track car. He is located near the Breezewood exit of the PA Turnpike and does good work for very reasonable prices.

Has anyone towed with a 14' open trailer?

Due to weight and storage space consideration, I'm looking at an aluminum 172" length. It's seems like it will be large enough, but leaves no space for weight distribution adjustment. I'm still considering because the popular Trailex are only 12'9" and I've seen larger cars on them.

Thanks!

Best way to make friends at a track or auto x event on a HOT or rainy day is to have an enclosed trailer :D

Uhaul trailers are about that length, which I have used numerous times. The frs is roughly 14' long so factor that. It's really going to depend on where the axles are setup on the trailer. Uhaul trailer are stable because they have long tongues and the axles are placed rearward so it carries a high percentage of the weight on the tongue(way too much imo). I was in a similar situation and ended up buying a 16’, partly because it’s hard to find a 14’ “car” trailer and partly due to resale.

Under 14', yes. It works fine, though we haven't measured tongue weight. You'll be way better off on weight distribution towing the FRS versus our Integras. It is nice to be able to park the car and trailer in regular size garages and other tight places.



Attachment 174451

I'm now looking and will be getting an enclosed one in the next few months. My research is saying Haulmark is a pretty good happy medium between getting something that is actually halfway decent and not spending a ton of money on something like a Featherlite. Everyone is telling me get no smaller than a 24' enclosed. You're going to want to put extra stuff in it so you will want the extra room.

Check out Mission Trailers or Alcom Stealth. I was looking at these for the 2018 season but it didn't work out financially. My current trailer is a 2001 Haulmark 16' (also pictured above). The torsion axles ride really nice so I'd recommend that option on whatever trailer you get.



I can fit everything I need in the 16' trailer. It is smaller than I would like but I have no desire for a 24' trailer. I'd much rather have a well optioned 18' or 20' with a V-nose and nice cabinets. Even with a short trailer and short tow vehicle there are many places that are difficult to drive to including many gas stations.

Thanks for the insight. I was originally looking at 20 footers and people kept saying to go bigger.

Just picked up an open car trailer. It is a 20’ with a 32” dove tail. Trailer came with 4’ steel ramps and wooden extensions are needed. What length ramps is everyone using? Looking at getting some of the aluminum ramps 7’ or 8’.

I have a 22ft enclosed v-nose and it is plenty big enough to fit my car, my kids kart, and other crap, plus it has shelves.