Thanks for all the feedback. I ended up getting a open trailer from big tex. Came with a lot of nice features and I will be using it in 2 weeks and see how it goes.

I tow my Project BRZ with my 2014 Touareg TDI and a Featherlight Open 18' Trailer. I like the open trailers due to the milage, maneuverability and ability to tow with a smaller tow vehicle. Enclosed are great if you have the tow vehicle for it. Look at ATC for an enclosed.

-mike

Took me most of a summer of cl browsing, but i'm <$1500 deep in this after a new set of tires.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y63...psenczebi3.jpg

Thinking of getting a Sundowner 4000ap aluminum trailer in 16' size...need to keep tow weight to around 4k for my Frontier as that's max recommended for smooth towing with it. Anyone have any experience with them? Any other suggestions for an open trailer that weighs 1400lbs or less? Less than 1300lbs would be more ideal.

Trailex
Featherlite

Also a frontier will do 5-6k easily!

Mike

The real advantage of a roll back is the very low approach angle. One of my cars is very low and has a long splitter. Evan with a tilt bed the splitter would drag if I did not use a long extender ramps, and would high center going onto a normal flat.

I've got a stupid question to ask... is there any buffer that you should consider when considering a trailer package. Say the Brz is 3000lbs and the trailer is 1400lbs would any vehicle that is rated to tow 4500lbs be good to go?

That's a great question.

I've been towing for about 25 years. Here is some insight. The towing capacity of the vehicle is inclusive of all the gear and passengers in the tow vehicle.

So if you have 4 people and 400lbs of gear in the car and the trailer weight is 1500 and the car with all the fluids and any cargo on the trailer weighs 3000. You would need a towing capacity of about 5700 or more. Additionally you want to make sure you load the trailer so that the back of the tow vehicle isn't too heavy but also isn't too light. I use the equalizer hitch which is a weight distributing and anti sway hitch and worth every penny of the $500 it costs.

Mike

Just to word it another way for clarity, manufacturers want to advertise the highest towing capacity possible for obvious reasons, so the listed capacity is generally what you can tow with an empty car.

Remember towing capacity isn't usually limited by what the hitch can handle. It's limited by the amount of mass the drivetrain/brakes/etc... can handle. Mass is mass, regardless of whether it's on a trailer, or in the car. Anything you add on to, or inside of, your car detracts from your official towing capacity.

I've owned open and enclosed and prefer an open trailer. I can store it at my house behind the fence and makes for a weight distributing hitch being unnecessary. I tow the BRZ / Miata with the F1fitty. I have a truck box mounted on the A-frame at the front of the trailer. That allows for storing jack, jack stands, fuel cans, random stuff. Tools, etc go in the bed, along with spare wheels / tires / cooler.

One thing I really like about the trailer, and sought out, are drop axles. Those get the floor of the trailer lower to the ground, so the loading angle is better. I don't have to rig up 2x10 boards, etc to load my car. I do have to jack the tongue to help with the loading angle slightly. And, because it's open, it's easier to load and tie down, for me. I grab the factory tie down / shipping points on the chassis and pull to the rear on either side, then the front eyelets for the front. My trailer has an open deck but that hasn't proven to be a hindrance or benefit either way. Oh, another thing my trailer has that is very important if you have drop axles... removable fender on driver side. This allows you to open the door to get in / out.

The trailer I'd really like to have is...

~ Aluminum (Lighter, no rust... considerably more expensive)
~ Open Car
~ Drop Axles
~ Electric trailer jack on the front for jacking the tongue to help with loading angle. I can engage that while I start unhooking tow straps (Speed to unload)
~ Truck box on the front A-frame / tongue for stuff. At least 3500# axles. LED lights.
~ Brakes on all 4 wheels.
~ Driver-side trailer fender that is on a hinge, and will swing out of the way without needing to be lifted / removed. (Ease / speed to load / unload)
~ Winch mounted to the trailer, wired up with heavy duty plug that plugs into the truck. For instance, a plug like what is used on golf carts to plug them in to charge. Requires wiring plug to rear bumper of truck.
~ 8 ply, Load Range D tires <--- Important. You may have to chuck the tires that come on the trailer and buy better ones. You will, sooner or later.

A few of those things are related to speed and ease of loading / unloading. When I load up at the house, I want it done quickly as I may be late to load up. When I get to the track, I need to unload very quickly as there are other things I need to do. When I'm loading up at the track to head home, I want that done very quickly, etc.

When you're at the track every month, all of this stuff adds up.

As for trailer tires... one of life's great hassles (the others being trailer light wiring and wheel hubs)... I have gone many thousands of miles with these tires. When I first bought them they were marketed as a Signet brand tire. Now Discount Tire sells them under a different name. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.

https://www.discounttiredirect.com/b...radial/p/29484

I currently own a maxxd drop-n-load trailer... it is a bagged open trailer... but if I had to do it over again, I would go with this aluminum trailer https://futuratrailers.com/low-loade...axle-trailers/ or a 24ft enclosed.

Security and protection from elements would be my top two reasons to go with an enclosed trailer.

IG @zeal.eightsix

I have an open steel trailer made by Econotrailer with tire rack and tool box (added separately). I went with steel because of price and knowing that I had sufficient tow capacity. My Tahoe, with towing package, is rated for 8100 lbs. Car and trailer together are around 4700, leaving a lot of margin plus plenty of room for spare wheels and tires and tools. Any remaining cargo goes in the Tahoe.

When comparing with aluminum trailers, new, without the tire rack and box, was nearly twice the price. Even used trailers were significantly more money and I would need to service the trailer completely to be comfortable in using it. By buying new, I had new brakes, new tires, new hubs, coupler, break-a-way system etc. Yes, I will probably need to touch up the spray enamel on the steel trailer at the end of each season.

If I went any heavier, I'd want a better, longer wheel base, tow vehicle. Indeed, I am shopping for a new GM 2500 pickup.

Note, if anyone wants a similar trailer setup, I can put you in touch with my guy who did the custom work and built the roll cage for my track car. He is located near the Breezewood exit of the PA Turnpike and does good work for very reasonable prices.

Has anyone towed with a 14' open trailer?

Due to weight and storage space consideration, I'm looking at an aluminum 172" length. It's seems like it will be large enough, but leaves no space for weight distribution adjustment. I'm still considering because the popular Trailex are only 12'9" and I've seen larger cars on them.

Thanks!

Best way to make friends at a track or auto x event on a HOT or rainy day is to have an enclosed trailer :D