What is needed for a proper alignment after lowering 1in? LCA's, Camber bolts?
 

What is needed for a proper alignment after lowering 1in? LCA's, Camber bolts?
There is a lot of information on this forum but no real answer on what is needed to get a proper or close to stock alignment after lowering the car with lowering springs.

I'm ordering swift springs and wondering what else I need. Thanks

What do you call a proper alignment?

If you want it back to stock specs, you'll need adjustable arms in the rear (stock toe arms should be fine). If you want something better suited to spirited driving you'll need adjustable arms in the rear and either camber bolts or camber plates up front.

With just the springs, you'll probably have around -0.5F and -2R, it'll handle better with -1 to -1.5F and -1R.

I'm not a professional but I doubt the alignment will be that far off with a 1 inch drop. You're probably fine without any additional parts. You have no way to adjust camber but whatever it rests at after the drop won't eat your tires or anything, just won't quite be "stock" anymore

I aim for -1.5 rear and -2 front with coilovers that are slotted. It's hard to get -2 up front otherwise with camber bolts and stock suspension without camber plates. The rear gains a ton of camber as you lower. 0 toe up front, 1/16" toe in on rear. This is pretty good for the street setup and I have no abnormal wear on my tires.

I'm lowered about 1.4" as well.

Rear camber on a 1" drop will be at about -2*, way more than you want if you're going to not add a bunch more camber up front.

I've got -2* all around, fronts needed camber bolts and slotted struts, rears were just there naturally on Swift Sport springs.

May I ask what you mean by slotted struts

They have slots in the top plate so you can adjust camber(front only)

And IMO -2 camber isn't THAT bad. Definitely livable

what he means, is the bolts where the strut mounts onto the car, the hole is slotted like an oval instead of circle so the strut has some movement for camber adjustment.

It's not that it's bad on its own, it's the difference in grip balance between front and rear. It'll be super understeery with -2R and ~0F. Ideally you want more front than rear because of the total lack of camber gain through compression up front, and the good amount of camber gain in the rear.

I would shoot for -2 to -2.5 up front if you have -2 in the rear.

I dunno if super understeery is the way I'd look at it. More like slightly more understeery. I'm gonna guys side he is just now lowering he isn't Mario Andretti so I doubt he will notice anything

So OP these are opinions but what you should be getting out of this is, if you want "like stock" alignment, you need adjustable rear control arms. If don't want to spend any more past an alignment, you're probably fine. If you race or notice odd tire wear you'll need those LCAs

Mine is slightly understeery with -2* all around, with -2 in the rear and close to 0 up front it would be very noticeable in spirited driving.

I did the S.Tech springs and I ended up with about -2.6 in the rear. The springs are 1" drop in the rear 1.3" front. I put in the H&R Camber bolt in the rear and they were able to dial it down to -2.3. I have the SPC bolts in the front and only got it to -1.5 (if my memory serves me right) in the front.

I was originally thinking something like -2 in the front and -1 in the rear. Since its just DD (spirited driving) I don't feel like going camber plates and LCA (pricey) so I will probably just go LCA and run the -1.5 F and somewhere around 0 to -.5 R.

Then don't get the Stance LCA. Nothing wrong with it, but it has a bend in it to automatically drop you. With springs you won't be able to level out. FYI

will the -2 camber affect the wear on your tires by a lot?