Aluminum 1-piece Driveshaft
 

Hey guys has anyone gone out and bought the aluminum driveshaft from driveshaft shop?
Any feed back? Any issues?

Done some research but all I could find for feed back is that the bolts arent long enough and only catch about 2 threads.

Just want to get some feed back before I go and buy one.
Thanks!:thumbsup:

refer:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2134213

also peep my sig for how to search this site very easily! It's a handy little tip

I have one. Shifting and acceleration from stop is so much smoother. I dunno that the "light weight" helped much but the 1 piece shaft feels much better. My bolts were long enough

Yeah as was stated in the other thread, the lighter weight is nice, will smooth out the acceleration somewhat. Biggest draws for me were the weather resistance (my stock shaft was already surface rusting after 2 winters) and significantly lighter weight. Is it a huge difference? No, but it would be silly to do the clutch and flywheel without touching the driveshaft.

As far as issues you will notice a somewhat sharp vibration in your gas pedal when the diff engages and you're really hammering into a corner, but that's not a problem with the unit so much as its a consequence of the higher NVH with an aluminum driveshaft. It's something I only really see at the track.

Another benefit is one less connection to wear over time.

Why would it be silly?

The driveshaft can be done in 20 minutes... the clutch and FW, however...

I could understand if somehow, one only had ability to remove the driveshaft with the tranny separated from engine, but really its something easily independently of any other mod

since @stugray so eloquently put out the reality of performance gains, what are you really sacrificing when you touch the clutch/FW to make the driveshaft a must-do if one was replacing the former?

Yeah... No. That's just bad information. Also, it literally makes NO difference if your stock driveshaft has surface rust on it. A ladybug taking a shit on your driver side mirror is a bigger issue.

Damn lady bugs

Wait, you guys don't Opti Coat your driveshafts?

Squadrogue's next thread.

"Guys should I Opti Coat my driveshaft?"

Fixed that for ya

Like I said in the prior post, if you have the JDM underpannels and go through all the work to unbutton the bottom of the car to get access to the trasmission, you might as well change the driveshaft while you're in there, if you're after the weight savings. You could do them seperate of course, but using basic tools you add another hour or so of busywork just to get back to the area you need.

As far as the rust, of course surface rust doesn't matter, but it turns into actual concerning rust fairly quickly; my stock exhaust flanges were starting rust severely to the point of effecting function after just two winters. I hadn't originally planned to do the driveshaft at all, but going down there for the flywheel and clutch and seeing it with spots all over, I figured I might as well gain corrosion resistance and drop 10 lbs for relatively cheap.

I can see why you'd want to do it, but why do you make the assertion that while doing the clutch and flywheel, NOT doing the driveshaft would be an error... given the dismal actual realized performance gains, and non-exclusiveness of the clutch and flywheel relative to the driveshaft?

Let's be real it takes 10 minutes to take off underbody panels.

Add another 10 for driveshaft assembly if you're half decent with wrenching.

It takes a whole day or more for most people to do a clutch and flywheel job.

Fair point, but it takes me a lot longer to take off those underpannels with the car up on jackstands for some reason (those FING POP WASHERS) so it was a pita enough to justify adding a few more minutes onto a lengthy clutch swap to do it all haha