budget Auddio upgrade using factory head unit
 

hi
This is my first car audio build and didn't have much experience w/ 12V in the past so please feel free to correct me if there is any wrong information here. I learned a lot from the community and members here. I just wanted to thank to the community and share what I have learned to help out folks like myself.

Front stage: PPI 65.C3 3 way component speakers $210

test repprt
http://www.precisionpower.com/html-v...5C3-review.pdf

they have good reputation on diymobileaudio forum
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...just-came.html

http://precisionpower.com/store/medi.../3/_/3_1_1.jpg
I routed out mounting brackets with 3/4" UHMW and 1/4" lexan at my work. only issue here was figuring out how to securely mount the tweeters.

http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/...psdkklmobu.jpg

http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/...psiuswkjoj.jpg

Subwoofer: Pioneer TS-SWX2502 $120
Max power(nominal): 1200W (300W)
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...unt/TS-SWX2502
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/St...2502_large.jpg
very punchy and fast. it works pretty good with EDM type of music.

Amplifier: Pioneer GM-D8604 $130
100W RMS x 4 @ 4 ohms
300W RMS x 2 @ 4 ohms
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...eries/GM-D8604
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/St...8604_large.jpg

I followed RandomHero's guideline to utilize the factory wiring for my amp and spekers. I believe there won't be a significant difference by running new speaker cable as the factory wires seems to be ~ 18 gauge.
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42239
thanks to RadndomHero for posting DIY

This amp is tiny and runs cool. played for a couple hours and it is barely warm and puts out good power!
channel A/B - front stage 100 rms per channel
channel c/d - bridged to subwoofer 300 rms

http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/...pskuyvy96l.jpg

LOC: AudioControl LCQ-1 $180
http://wwv.crutchfield.com/p_161LCQ1...Q-1-White.html
6 Channel Line Out Converter w/ Equalizer
http://images2.crutchfieldonline.com...1-o_Front.jpeg
I was going to go with LC2i but a member here (mines13) suggested LCQ-1 as it has equalize function to give you further adjustability as every car is different and frequency response changes by speaker locations.
Mines13 was right! LCQ-1 made a huge difference in SQ. It sounded pretty good w/o the equalize adjustments but sounded a little unbalanced.
thanks to Mines13 & sure74

setup

Factory bass roll-off
I took dB measurements @ 60 HZ and here is the result

Volume Level dB
30 98
32 99
34 101
36 102
38 103
40 104
42 104
44 104
46 104
48 104
50 104

dB level increases linearly about 1-2dB/2volume up untill volume 40 and it stops increasing. So I assumed the bass on factory system rolls off around volume level 40.

Here is how I fixed it
LCQ-1 has a function called the AccuBass. It supposedly fixes the bass-roll off by counter balancing the incoming frequency to level out in the bass-roll off region. The manual doesn't explain in great detail so here is what I think it does.
AccuBass knob let you control what volume level to kick in the Accubass. The bass roll-off happens around volume 40. I played a 60 hz test tone around volume 42-44 and raised the dial until I heard the increase in volume. The level control knob let you control the amplitude of the curve. So you can dial the level control to find more linear level. It works pretty good in my opinion. Once I have them setup correctly I didn't notice any bass-roll off at higher volumes and it transits pretty smoothly from low to high volume.

Frequency response
I used audiotool app & IMM 6 mic to get RTA data. It is not very accurate device if you are seeking for very precise measurement but this offers decent measurements to work with.
Here is the graph before the adjustment (front stage)

http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/...psuqbkkkf8.png

I didn't have a chance to get the measurement with stock speakers but the graph looks sporadic w/ the new speakers and it explains why it sounded unbalanced.

The equalizer on LCQ-1 is easy to use and responses pretty good. I tweeted it around for less than 10 mins and I was able to get farily flat line across the full range.
http://i1318.photobucket.com/albums/...psn8yastdw.png

for ~$700 I think they sound awesome! I am happy with them and recommend to anyone here thinking of keeping factory head.

note:
Factory head unit speaker output levels are low. @ volume 60 playing 60 hz test tone it only outputs 5.5V. LCQ-1 helps amplifying pre-amp line outs to around 3V. I was hoping to get higher pre-amp inputs to the amp but I think it limits due to low speaker levels.
I highly recommend deadening the doors if you would like your door speakers to play anything below 100 hz. You could high pass the door speakers and let your subs work on that region but doesn't sound as good.

I eventually plan to go full active w/ DSP or new headunit. Until then..

@ghoney81

Great post man! If by any chance you make it to a local meet I would love to listen to your setup. I haven't been to one in a while, but am looking at the next @ModBargains meets, or maybe one of the Tuesday niters at DJ.

Thanks for your comment! pm about the meet daemano

Very cool. I have been considering those exact PPI 3-ways for my FRS audio setup as well, I may have to tap your brain on mounting them when my time comes. How do you like the sound from them compared to the stock setup?


Funny, I have that same Pioneer sub/enclosure in my 4-Runner hooked up to a super-tiny PPI amp. I was skeptical at first, but for the price (I think I paid like $100-$120), it's surpassed all my expectations. FWIW, I listen to almost everything from classic rock to edm (I'm an ex edm & hip hop dj).

I hooked up the door speakers to the amp. They sounded pretty good IMO and held up for couple of months until I swapped them out.
I had problem w/ one of the PPI speaker and had to get it replaced. so I can't comment you on their level of quality control but they sound great once you set them up correctly. There is no competition btw them.

stock 3/10
stock w/ amp 5/10
PPI 9/10 :clap:

ever thought about making those dash brackets to sell? Would buy them in an instant.

The bottleneck on our car is the headunit. You really need a good dsp, strong pre amp signal and decent power to bring full potential of PPI. Otherwise you wont see much of difference.

I wish I could help you... my work just got rid of the router and replaced it with a 5 axis and everybody is kinda all over it right now.