Perrin CBE crackling noise during cold start
 

I've noticed a crackling noise when I cold start the car. Tonight I had the chance to go down and listen to it and it seems like the sound of boiling water. Exhaust tips were dripping with condensation which I juist learned is not a bad sign haha. I'm too comfy to go back out and lift the car to check, but I don't recall seeing a hole that usually exists in a muffler to let the water drain out on the Perrin, could that be where the boiling noise be coming from?

I don't notice this after the car has been warmed up btw. Also does this V-Clamp look right? I've had the CBE for almost two years now and that looks pretty beat up, being burned looking and all.

If you dont have a leak and its only evident on cold start it likely the niose is due to the cold start ecu settings where it runs -15 retard on cold start and increased fueling.

if you set the post start timing to -4 from-15 and disable P050B cold start ignition performance will likely fix it see tune tweaks link below

I think you have a tiny leak there, and the continual seeping out of moisture over time is causing mild corrosion around the area. I would check that seal; doesn't look like it was intentionally designed to be a moisture outlet.

As for the boiling at warmup, you must have quite a pool of water in there that it doesn't just evaporate quietly. Additionally, it looks like that area is getting especially hot, so maybe the muffler is obstructed?

Just a guess...

You need to tighten the v band clamp ALOT more than that. Tighten until the two ends of the clamp meet each other until about 1/2-1/4 of an inch, should fix the issue

yeah it looks like that clamp isn't tight enough and the noise you are hearing could be vibration.

I also get a fair amount of water coming out the tail pipes after cold start but that's perfectly normal.

OP recommend checking alignment of the two mating ends and look for any large gaps between pipes. Mess w/ exhaust hangers and heights of both pipe ends until no gaps between each mating surface.

Also check the clamp if it's malformed or still good. If the clamp has seen a few bumps or a few take-offs, it's probably toast.

If it's good, when putting it back on tap around the collar between ratchet drives... a couple taps every 3-4 turns of the locker nut is what we do with predictable results given mating surfaces have no large gaps and the clamp is good

Thanks for the updates, i'll tighten it up a bit this weekend.

Make sure to be careful with tightening the V band on there, for sure do not tighten it till there is no gap. You only want to tighten it to 75in lbs, which is less than 10 ft lbs. It does look like it's leaking exhaust a little bit out of there, but it's hard to tell if it's coming from condensation coming out when it's cold or not. I'd loosten the clamp, and rotate it so the gap on the vband is more to the side instead of on the bottom, that might help it not let the water out when it's cold.

Bolded part is key. I snapped one of the clamps on mine with an air ratchet (not impact gun). Wasn't paying attention and let it get too tight until the bolt snapped.