TPMS help
 

Does anyone know if I will need to program a set of tpms sensors if I get another set of oem FRS tpms and put them on aftermarket wheels and keep the originals on the stock wheels ?

I tried searching but all I can find is for new sensors and using a tool. But will oem sensors need to be programmed too?

Yes. They all have a unique serial which the computer reads, so you'll need to program your car for them. Easy to do at the dealer. Or just have tire shop swap your stock ones in, which can be done w/o removing the tire (but will require unbeading it).

^what he said.

That's what I'm trying to avoid. To either keep paying to swap them or program. You know if I can have 2 different sets programmed to the car? that way I can just pay programming once And have both stocks and aftermarket programmed to my car

Hopefully someone answers this question. This is what I'm planning on doing soon. I think I'm going to use the stock wheels for snow tires and get a set of nice aftermarket wheels for summer tires.

Nope, you can't have 2 sets programmed at once. However, I think there is something you can get to program yourself... although I'm not too sure about that.

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/ATEQ-QuickSet-TPMS-Reset-Tool/dp/B008SCWXN4/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1423663365&sr= 1-1&keywords=ateq+quickset"]ATEQ Quickset[/ame]

Are you tired of shelling out big bucks to the dealer every time you swap wheels or rotate tires? Need to replace a sensor or two? The ATEQ Quickset TPMS reset tool is the perfect tool for those of us that swap wheels regularly or have a set of summer and winter wheels! Don't spend another dime (or hour) at the dealer! Reset (relearn) your TPMS yourself at home!

The QuickSet downloads the IDs that are stored in your vehicle's ECU. The PC based software allows you to enter the IDs from your alternate set of tires into the QuickSet. You must have your alternate set of IDs available (from a TPMS decoder tool such as the ATEQ VT30, provided by a garage, an invoice or on the sensor itself). Once the QuickSet is updated with the alternate set of IDs, you are able to upload these to your vehicle's ECU through the OBDII port.

I have this and it works great. I have my OEM wheels and tires for summer, and another set of FR-S wheels and Blizzaks for winter. This lets me tell the car what wheels are on it, and the TPMS light stays off.

And all you have to know is the serials?

Correct. The ATEQ will actually tell you the codes of the OEM sensors that are currently programmed to the car. Then you just need to enter the new codes (via Windows computer and supplied program). Any tire shop will have a tool that can read the codes, but not all shops have the correct tool to write the codes to the ECU. That's what happened in my case, they were able to read the winter TPMS codes, but couldn't program them. The ATEQ allowed me to program the new codes based on what the shop gave me. When summer rolls around, I will swap the OEM wheels back and enter them into the ECU.

Yes (we have that exact tool at our shop).

The problem is that it won't pull the serials from the sensors nor does it keep track of wheel/sensor position in a useful way, at least it has never for us. You can move the serial numbers around to the appropriate location in the software easily enough, but you need to know what wheel each sensor is in to do that. If you buy new wheels/tires from Tirerack and have them mount/balance them for you, they only give you the serials on a piece of paper, with no indication of vehicle placement. Maybe they changed that practice now, it's been almost 2 years.

Explanation/story: My right front tire came off the bead awhile ago. It broke that wheel's sensor (aftermarket wheels and sensors). I bought a matching new sensor from Tirerack, wrote the number down (and they print it out for you), installed it. Used the ATEQ tool to change the serial for the RF wheel. The problem with that is that the positions in the ATEQ software are arbitrary, so although I replaced the serial in the RF position according to the software, it wasn't actually the RF sensor serial. So now I don't know which sensor actually broke and was replaced. The software only pulls the codes from the vehicle memory (read: currently stored in the car), it does NOT pull numbers from the sensors themselves.

Currently my only options are:
1) pull the 3 other wheels and break the outer beads so I can read the serials, which is easy enough..but I wish I knew this was going to be an issue when I just had the wheels off to do my brake pads and lines...and replace that one broken sensor, or
2) replace serials one by one until I get the correct one. This will only work IF the serial number I replaced in the software is still saved somewhere.


Please note, this was entirely preventable:
1) I should have written down as much of the serial number of the broken sensor as I could when I removed it. That way I'd at least have an idea of which sensor needed to be replaced in the software.
2) I should have remembered where I put the paper from Tirerack with the 4 original serials they installed in my wheels.
3) I should have written down the 4 serials before I replaced the one with the new number. Especially since I knew I forgot where the Tirerack paper was.



***************** Cliffs Notes **********************

Yes, you just need to know the sensor serial numbers to use that tool. Make sure to write them all down, and store that paper somewhere you'll remember. Also, I highly suggest you enter the serials in the appropriate wheel location in the software.

Same Problem
 

I had the exact same problem, but it went away when I removed the sensors.


Now there are 4 lighter wheels and a faster car ! (or so the unsprung weight theory says) ----------------


Less lead required for balancing also !


The flashing light bothered me for about the first 5 mins. of driving and is now easy to ignore.

WRITE DOWN THE SENSOR ID AND WHICH LOCATION IT'S INSTALLED IN.

I didn't do that when I got my 2nd set of TPMS installed. Had to get the shop to peel back the tire and re-read the IDs. Ugggggggh.

Many common tire shops have a tool that can be placed in the proximity of a TPMS sensor and read the code without removing the tire.

New product request: A tool that can plug into the OBD port and short circuit the TMPS light bulb :)

So in other words there is no easy way out? I saw that tool be mentioned on other threads but a lot of people say it's not good and wouldn't recommend it. Guess I'm going to end up not using sensors on the aftermarket wheels