Broken Project Kics R40 lug nut
 

Soooooo....

I was removing the lug nuts and this happened:

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...psbffr7tt9.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i1...ps2uafvvmm.jpg

I've heard of stuff like this happening with these aluminum lug nuts. I've never seen one break at that spot though. They usually break higher up to where you can still use a special type of socket and remove it from the wheel stud. It's flush with the surface of the wheel though so there isn't really anything that can grab onto it.

Guess I won't be buying any of these ever again. I've had these for a good while now and they've seen some pretty bad weather. I was actually about to get new lugs and stuff this coming up weekend and then this happened lol.

Anybody know what would be a good method to remove this without destroying the wheel?



I've looked around and only found one other instance on the norcalevo forum where the same exact thing happened. He drilled it off using two different drill bits. I'm just seeing what other options there are before blindly going in and cutting/drilling/smashing shit.

damn that sucks :(

yesterday, i broke two adapters (wrench to socket bit thing) cuz they were cheap metal and the shop that installed my wheels overtorqued one of the lugs. Finally used my last adapter, which luckily was stronger metal, and got the lug off.

Yeah, this is on the rear wheel too. I also had 2 go bad up front and those are on extended ARP wheel studs.

I've heard mixed things about those studs since I've had them. I already have OEM wheel studs and bolt on spacers on the way. I'll be replacing the front studs once those come in.

Just need to figure out what to do about the rear now.

Project Kics R40 are good for daily cars. Anytime you use them for competition, it starts to have issues at the seat. Most track people on the west coast don't use Project Kics for performance use. They are, however, very nice for daily use because it reduces the chances of scratching your wheels. :)

I agree. I've used them on 3 sets of wheels now: my current once, my old SBC RPF1s, and my old Mag Blue TE37SLs.

All three have zero scratches or chipcs from where the lug nuts seat onto the wheel. I think the harsh winter weather helped contribute as well. Not to mention how many times I've taken wheels on and off this car from events and such.

I'm still curious as to what ideas people have that can help fix this. I've talked to some other friends and they've mentioned drilling into the lug nut, and using a chisel to beat into the lug nut. Both are methods that will supposedly loosen the lug nut off the stud and help make it easier to remove.
:iono:

Yea that spinning section seizes overuse and becomes a single unit lug nut. It's not a flaw, it's just an inherent nature of lifestyle vs. actual performance use. :(

I'm not one of those "most" people I guess... but I've burned through 3 sets of R40 because of my own mistakes.

:)

-alex

You need to drive faster than sandbagging at 20% throttle. :D

What are the CSG preferred/recommended lugs?

At the very least, use a lug nut that doesn't have a spinning seat.

i would suggest drilling the lug nut at 12 oclock until its basically through and then again at 6 oclock and then create a "key" in the shape of a upside-down U or a staple looking thing if you will that you can put through those holes, heat the lug nut and try to take it off then. if that fails then try drilling through all the way at 12 and 6 and try to separate it. most importantly be patient. take walks and try to not get frustrated.

i definitely wouldn't have the patience for that. lol

Hmmm.

Have you tried either of these methods before?

The "create a key" thing may not be the best route for me, but the other one isn't so bad. I mean, whatever I end up doing is going to require some patience to achieve without scuffing up the wheel.

cant say i have, was just the first thought that came to mind.