FI Opinions Needed
 

Background: I have read pretty much every single forum post I could find on forced induction; this includes the large "owner's threads." Despite this, typically you have people going back and forth over which is better among the SC's, or the guys shouting go turbo, and I haven't been able to come to a decision. Thus I'm looking for opinions for a specific set of circumstances, circumstances which may apply to many folks out there. There was a similar thread on this, but it seems to have died and been quite inconclusive. Furthermore, there seems to be a ton more information on superchargers on this platform than there is for the various turbo systems. I shall admit some degree of ignorance regarding the turbo systems; I've read the posts and may have forgotten some of the content -- my understanding is that while most turbo kits provide a header, some allow use with other aftermarket headers.

I would appreciate the opinions of those who have gone FI and suggestions given the following parameters.

260whp 185wtq peak -- goal. These are approximate numbers of course and vary by dyno. Its another way of saying I want 300 peak hp at the crank with the associated required torque / without changing redline. Powerband is fine the way it is (reduced torque dip w/ headers / tune). P.S.: 93 octane.

I have JDL uel headers, nameless fp/op catted/resonated, and borla catback. As such, I'd prefer a system where I can still use the headers and catback but not completely opposed to selling them if necessary. Not a deal breaker here.

Budget: I'm willing to spend 9k after its all said and done. Not going cheap, but don't want to go crazy overboard either.

Main goal: daily driver for 200k miles (decent reliability--don't want my engine exploding -- I am a lawyer. Your honor, my FI'd car blew up so I couldn't make it :lol:); stop-and go traffic daily (~45 min) very occasional (once a year) track use. Driving style: rarely revving over 4k as it is my DD, but want the extra oomph when being mistreated by douchebag drivers on the highway; and the weekly or so drive on backroads with two or three rolls to 60 and general spirited driving for about an hour (but never full WOT for a long time).

I realize there have been many threads similar to this; but I'm giving particulars in the hope that those with more experience CGS_Mike, for example, or any others, might chip in with a focused response to the goals articulated here. Many thanks!

Alright sir sounds like you want similar to what I have.

Ill start with the numbers, my car made 258WHP and 195WTQ on pump 94 gas here in Canada.

The powerband still feels the same, very linear and pulls right up to the redline just like it did naturally aspirated. It is not a torquey car but its still clear that there is a ton more torque down low and quite a bit more fun in city situations.

Reliability is unknown yet, I don't daily drive mine but I know a local guy who does with a very similar setup and has had no problems in the last year and a half. We see temps as high as +35 Celcius and as low as -30 Celcius here.

The cost? Not including exhaust (I have JDL UEL headers, JDL overpipe and front pipe, and a Greddy SP Elite rear section) I paid about $8100 CAD installed and tuned, plus that also included the matching oil cooler.

The noise?

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UXL3EpeuiGI"]BRZ Kraftwerks SC - YouTube[/ame]


The kit? Kraftwerks C38 with Skunk2/Kraftwerks oil cooler and tuned on ecutek.

JRSC with JROC

Sounds you want a supercharger. Most turbo kits...almost all turbo kits would replace your headers

Key points to your goals are bolded.

Your torque goal indicates that a centrifugal supercharger will get the job done. Obviously, you've taken some physics at some point, and understand that horsepower (work over time) is what makes the car move faster, not torque (instantaneous work).

Reliability is a major factor, indicating that a simpler system will probably suit your goals better, as there are less points for failure.

My recommendation:

$4k - Jackson Racing TIY kit
$750-1000 - Ecutek + custom tune from a tuner of your choice
$700 - Jackson Racing engine oil cooler - For those spirited drives and the annual track day
$1000 - Driveshaft Stop Axles (your OEM axles will *eventually* fail if you are driving hard, and certainly will not last 200k under those conditions)

This will also allow you to keep all existing parts on your car, and you will hit your whp/wtq goal right out of the box.

what they said^

Turbo would be too much work for you, and an SC would let you keep your current parts.

If you want a daily driver I'd say go for a PD blower
the centrifugal type are great for making peak numbers but there's lack of low down torque compared to a PD setup

Have had my 86 with the intercooled Sprintex on for 8000 k now and absolutely love it as a DD.

As said a PD SC is the way to go imo for a nice DD as it give great low down and mid range Tq and still goes hard enough up top :party0030:

Good MPG as well when just cruising .

I would venture to say that the c38 is overkill for his needs while the C30 more appropriate. Yes, with a C38 you will get more power and yes, 9k will afford the C38+ additional mods necessary with that much power like fuel injectors, oil cooler, clutch, tires, quality tune and maybe brakes.

But, he is not tracking the car and he is not drag racing. Also, he expresses some concern over his engine life and detonation. Even with a quality tune more power = greater ware & tare. The engine seals, rings, bla bla will be worn down faster.

Is the OP capable to work on his car with his hands or is he paying a premium each time his car has issues. Lets not forget this is the lawyers DD! he cant be late to court!

I have also yet to see a kraftwerks kit at the track. I have seen more than 6-7 JRSC kits at the track.

based on my research the kraft and jackson make similar power but the jackson appears to be more reliable. I base this on the comments I read in the forum for each. I believe the krafts has been around longer and therefore, has more reviews.

I wont disagree there, I just got a good deal on my C38, its total overkill for me too but I have dreams of building an engine in a few years. I had mine done really conservatively but my car is primarily a auto x/lapping car with the occasional weekend trip or drive.

OP why dont you just get an upgraded motor from @FullBlown so that you wont have to worry about the "what ifs" that come with the fi setup?

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is my guess