Pm'd

How do you like the Skunk2 headers? Performance and sound wise? The alpha or ultra series? Im in the process of installing mine as we speak:cheers: just checking the forum while i take a break and cant get any further until the morning.....:thumbdown:

Are torque specs specific to your car? If so where can i find mine? If not what are the general torque specs for the header area? i want to change my headers but do not know what are the bolt torque specs.....

see here
http://www.borla.com/17284.pdf

22 foot pounds header/engine bolts
26 foot pounds header/overpipe bolts

added some oil cooler info as well to first post

If I get a test pipe, what does that exactly replace and will I most likely fail the NYC emissions test with it? Debating whether to get that to go with my new exhaust system, but if its going to fail me on the emissions test, then it may not be worth the trouble.

I'm not sure what a "test pipe" is ??

Generally if you remove one or more of the two catalytic converters (cats) in the exhaust you may fail testing depending on how strict the testing is in your area.

If your referring to a "track pipe" or a muffler delete then that should not effect emissions test but you may fail on noise output.

I'm in OZ so not up with tests in USA.

added a bit more info on headers and oil coolers to first post.

COnsdiering running the Ultimate racing 2.75 inch overpipe and resonated catless front pipe combo with the skunk2 header and perrin 2.5 ich resonated combo.

THe 2.75 inch piping work with the 2.5 inch outlet on the header and inlet on the perrin work without any issues?

THoughts on any issues with running this setup?

@steve99, Awesome post, very informative, thank you. Helps simplify the decision about where to start and get the best bang for your buck.

added a couple of link to intke manifold oil starvation high rpm ect

Anyone know that the TRD intake need to do the maf-scaling?

Thanks.

trd intake should be fine maf scaling wise

"If you want more than about 35-40 wheel horsepower gain then your going to need to go Forced Induction FI either Turbo or Supercharger, just skip NA mods "
Hey, I've been doing some research/lurking here for the past month and I have zero experience with modding a car. I would just like to clarify if this statement means that you can go from a completely stock frs/brz and add a turbo kit onto it without any other modifications? I tried to use the search function, but I couldn't find anything that I was looking for(may have been incorrectly searching). Thanks!

This thread is about naturally aspirated basic mods.

Their is a forced induction thread that should provide answers.
But quick and dirty answer

Yes you can bolt on a supercharger or turbocharger kit to a stock frs\brz motor without decompressing or other internal engine mods

On petrol you will be limited to about 10 psi boost due to limitations of stock fuel injection system. arround 280 wheel hp

You might also want to budget for a clutch and an oil cooler and a bigger radiator if you want to drive it hard or track it.

Without clutch you might want to stick to about 7 or so psi boost arround 240 wheel hp and you might get away without the radiator , but an oil cooler is still needed, unless you live in cold climate and you only drive hard for very short periods

stock cars are about 170 wheel hp

You can break stock cars by driving them like a d1ck, you will break a boosted one faster if you drive in that manner with no respect for the extra mechanical stresses and heat loading you are putting on the car.

I love this thread!

Thanks to the information, here, I am now running Open Flash's UEL headers and an E85 Stage 2 tune on my 2015 BRZ. And I have the glove box outlet cap in the sound tube.

I'm no mechanic--i've never done anything more complicated than brakes on any of my previous cars. But I had no trouble installing the header and flashing the tune in my driveway.

The car I bought was a fun little car. Now, with the investment of about $1000 and a Saturday of work, I have something that feels like a real sports car! I know it's still not actually a fast car but it feels dramatically faster. I don't have access to a dyno, but I can easily believe the changes have added at least 10% more power, and mostly in the 4-5000 rpm range which make daily driving so much more fun!

Thanks for the great information.

"If you want more than about 35-40 wheel horsepower gain then your going to need to go Forced Induction FI either Turbo or Supercharger, just skip NA mods "




Thats weird to me... Who gets FI with stock exhaust / no E85 / no tune? All NA mods are perfect add-ons to FI and should be first in the build.. except for the Perrin inlets and pulleys the FI replaces

@steve99 been contemplating about the Perrin cold air intake. Would I have to adjust anything with my tune, or should it be "ok" ?

most turbo kits require different header than used for NA

Yes you could re-use most NA header for supercharger except maybe Nameless or PLM header

most turbo kits and many supercharger kits don't use stock intake or require a different intake setup than you would use when NA , to fit turbo or supercharger and/or drive belts pullys ect.

A lot of people move from OFT/tactrix/brzedit tune system to Ecutek when they go FI as its the only system that supports flex fuel at present and most FI tuners use ecutek.

Unless your using the OFT SBD specific FI kits

Many will upgrade to 3" exhaust components on high output turbo setups, where 2.5' is suffient for NA and also keeps noise/rasp levels down NA, turbo's are great mufflers.

The 2.5" perrin intake is fairly close to stock maf scaling, but would benefit from custom scaling for best results

The 3" big maf definitely requires maf rescale to be safe.

honestly if you NA then leave intake stock , just a drop in filter will get most of the gains you can get from an entire intake without the associated hassles.

Thanks for the info man! Personally im staying NA & If I ever decide to go the FI route (supercharger) I'll be okay because Im getting all NA mods you listed except for a header. I enjoy my current exhaust setup too much to change it up

Preferred - aem tuned intake or grimmspeed?

Their is not much power in intakes, the grimspeed will work well as its wont require maf scaling

Nice job steve!

If anything the supercharger is the best FI option to keep it feeling like stock, dont forget about the electric supercharger either. Always a good alternative if someone wants right on that edge between NA and FI hp.

Major props for this thread! This will be very helpful. Thank you!

I'm interested in whether or not properly deleting the cat in the stock headers would produce most if not all of the gains as some of the major third party company's headers... I have a turbo kit on order and wouldn't mind deleting the cat and playing with stage 2 before I go boost but I don't feel like spending a fortune to do so :P
Ive also notice that there is a single digit percent difference between the "unequal-ness" of the ft86speedfactory header vs stock... would I then use the Stage 2 UEL or Stage 2 EL file?

The stock header lacks the proper collector and scavenging that the aftermarket ones do so it will limit your power. It's built for economy (cheap), not necessarily performance.

If you're going turbo, you'll already have a manifold as most of them all come with one or you'll need a turbo compatible one.

You won't want a cat in the header if you're turbo. It will get burned up pretty quick. You'll also want EL especially if going turbo. The difference on N/A is pretty minor with torque response in different areas, but turbo you'll start to see the gap between UEL and EL.

see perrin post here the stock header was better without cat but not as good as aftermarket catless headers

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13991

This and you would want to run the EL tune.

Yes this is what I was looking for, I know my kit comes with an exhaust manifold which is why I don't want to go out and spend 1k on a new header just to have to sell it again when the turbo kit is installed.

Re transmission and header choice. I would recommend all AT owners get UEL where the power band starts at 4000 rpm. The powerband for EL headers usually starts around 4500, which is just too short for the long AT ratios. Catted EL can be as high as 5000rpm!

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing

Stock heat shielded catted header vs ceramic coated uncatted header temperature testing:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=77107

Around 60F/33C difference in areas.

added some more oil temp vs oil weight data to first post

oil temp vs pressure data from hard use 0W20 vs 5W30
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=91820

This is a great read, answered a lot of my questions. Thanks steve99!

Muffler Thanks
 

i Was going to just have my mufflers redone like I did on my FRS 2013. But after read here that unless headers are changed iwould be getting much hp out of it I changed my mind.

Oh sorry I traded my 2013 for a 2016 FRS. THE DEALKER PAID ME TO TAKE IT.
Really, they gave me $22,000 for it paid my existing loan off..

Can anyone give me some info on the best n least expensive ways to pick up some HP with the 2016??

Thanks,

Mikie 916

ACE 4 2 1 header + delicious tuning I guess.

The exact same way everyone does on the 2013, 2014, and 2015s. Or really any modern NA vehicle.

Intake, exhaust, tune, and then if your fuel system has the headroom, E85.

All the same brands are still at the top of the heap, etc.

The cheapest easiest HP you get NA is E85 fuel and a tune on a stock car. It good for about 20hp. and its totally reversible with no tools or swapping parts.

If you staying on petrol then Tune and catless header. any decent brand will do, the zillion dollar one,s get you a few more hp.

But on E85 you seem to do pretty well with any brand and even the zillion dollar ones gain very little anything over the normal brands on E85 fuel (tune of course)

I would add to cheapest/easiest also drop-in aftermarket air filter alongside E85+tune. While it's not of 'no swapping parts', that swapping is simple enough, easily reversible and air-filter costs cheap enough to well fit 'entry set'.